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LabBox

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after several trials and a bit of frustration, 'm happy to report that I successfully developed my first 35mm film in the Labbox, loaded and processed the film in daylight; the result is excellent.the film is evenly processed. I learned that all one needs to do is follow the precisely and it works just fine. Now on to 120 film...
 
After reading the article, it seems to me, a 'D' cell battery powered bbq spit motor in a stand, at the correct hight, with good connection to the tank knob would take over the agitation task, easily.

These funnels should include one that fits well and a bottom board for motor and tank should hold both together to prevent slipping apart misadventures.

Cheers and Godspeed to all,
Eli

https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=L&ai...t=&hvlocphy=9009983&hvtargid=pla-799797292486

Agfa used to make a similar tank: https://emulsive.org/articles/revie...ht-film-processing-tank-the-agfa-rondinax-35u I think Leica sold a rebranded version. It's been out of production for a long time.
 
after several trials and a bit of frustration, 'm happy to report that I successfully developed my first 35mm film in the Labbox, loaded and processed the film in daylight; the result is excellent.the film is evenly processed. I learned that all one needs to do is follow the precisely and it works just fine. Now on to 120 film...

Very cool.
 
Jobo stopped production of the 2400 daylight tank a number of years back. Secondary sellers are asking ridiculous prices for them. The LabBox offers more and being closer in design to a Rodinax, easier to use. Get the crank for the LabBox, when I had a Rodinax, constantly turning the knob was annoying.
Actually that was one of my mistakes; the crank seems more convenient but the knob more securely feeds the film into the real properly. The knob the way to go for feeding in the film into the reel; the crank is more convenient for agitation.
 
Ralph, I really admire your determination. I can't help wondering if the Paterson System isn't still viable for you in a darkroom? If you could first clamp both sides of the reel in a vertical plane you could lift the film end into the ball-bearing dogs. Then you'd need to somehow clamp just one half of the spiral while you work the other half - the dogs will draw the film in without the use of the other hand. You need another pair of hands to help to construct a simple jig, but I do feel it could be made to work.
 
Jobo stopped production of the 2400 daylight tank a number of years back. The LabBox offers more and being closer in design to a Rodinax, easier to use.

Is the LabBox/Rondinax easier to use than the Jobo daylight-loading tank?
This Jobo tank in any case offers inversion processing in the same way as its dark-loading counterparts. Thus established processing-procedures and -times can be taken over one to one.
 
Ralph, I really admire your determination. I can't help wondering if the Paterson System isn't still viable for you in a darkroom? If you could first clamp both sides of the reel in a vertical plane you could lift the film end into the ball-bearing dogs. Then you'd need to somehow clamp just one half of the spiral while you work the other half - the dogs will draw the film in without the use of the other hand. You need another pair of hands to help to construct a simple jig, but I do feel it could be made to work.

The Labbox works well for me for 35mm film. I will also try to make it work for 120 but, that seems to be a lot trickier than 35 mm. 4 x 5 sheet films I will continue to develop trays. Nothing is going to keep me another joke room. Nothing beats the smell of fixer in the morning.
 
It's been mentioned a lot, but the LB really works well if attention is given to the manual of operations.

It's a practical design imo that delivers on it's promises.
 
I'm just gonna leave this here, without pointing at anyone specific.

If one follows every step in the manual to the letter, one will have no trouble with NON-PET films.

Every bit of trouble I had for the first 2-3 rolls I did, was basically me not paying attention.

The LB is dead simple and because of that somewhat deceptive if one is not a manual reading kinda guy.

If in doubt, sacrifice a few rolls and load with the lid off. It becomes pretty obvious if one is not doing something right.

A small comment on following the manual directions. The original manual which issued with the Kickstarter delivered LB units was a total disaster - language unclear, diagrams unclear and not correctly associated with related text. However, I had occasion to review the current version of the manual available on line. It is clear that the manual was completely rewritten and all new diagrams replaced.. It is now quite clear and accurate. I think what happened was (1) the original was written in Italian, then translated to English by someone who was less than competent, and (2) the original was written well before they delivered the first units, and there were a number of serious changes to the reels, their assembly assembly, and operation after the manual was written.
 
I think what happened was (1) the original was written in Italian, then translated to English by someone who was less than competent, and (2) the original was written well before they delivered the first units, and there were a number of serious changes to the reels, their assembly assembly, and operation after the manual was written.

This makes me think of one bit in Robert Pirsig's book "Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance" where the narrator - a technical writer by trade - talks about the process that he would often go through to familiarize himself with a product before writing a manual for it.
In essence, the people that hired him often would pull the least valuable employee from what he was doing to help the writer do the manual 😅
 
The benefit is simplicity, especially with a monobath.
Rotary development with no need for a changing bag etc done in any tiny apartment/room with running water.
Its also fun. But obviously not for everyone. Fun, that is.
 
When writing instructions I tried to imagine explaining things to my Mother where it was imperative that she understand it.

So teaming a tech writer with some wet behind the ears engineer isn't all that bad of a strategy.
 
Agfa introduced this idea of daylight-loading. They made 3 different models.

This idea has been taken over by Jobo, though with a tank that very much resembles their other modern-type tanks, in the 60's and made it into the 2000's.

I myself have repeatedly doubted the benefit of such tank for a experienced user. Unless maybe he is physically limited in loading a spiral.
That Ralph did not take that advanced Jobo version instead very much surprises me.

Ralph is physically limited in loading aspiral(no left hand). The Lab Box worked out great for me in 135. Have yet to try it for 120.
 
The issue I had with mine was getting the reels on correctly. The molded in directional arrows are really difficult to see. Once I got that straighten out I had no problem processing 35mm film. I have separate 120 reels and sort of gave up on that. I'm still not sure if I have the 120 reels on correctly.
 
I just ordered one of these because, according to the manufacturer, it will allow me to develop film in daylight, including loading he reel. Does anybody have any experience with it?
Can be found at wwwmacodirect.de

after 5 years of using it, it's my first choice of developing 35mm film. Never had the courage to try thge 120 module.
 
I'm using both the 35 and the 120 module. The problem with the 120 module is that I'm always wasting one of 12 pictures when loading the film onto the reel. One frame is exposed to light before closing the lid finally. Development process works fine for me (approx. 25 films until now). The development time should be reduced by 10...20% if you agitate permanently (I think that is missing in the manual).
 
I'm using both the 35 and the 120 module. The problem with the 120 module is that I'm always wasting one of 12 pictures when loading the film onto the reel. One frame is exposed to light before closing the lid finally. Development process works fine for me (approx. 25 films until now). The development time should be reduced by 10...20% if you agitate permanently (I think that is missing in the manual).

Use some wide painters tape to make the film roll longer so no frame is exposed and see if that saves the lost frame.
 
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