Bessa II light leaks.

[PTxIVZ]

Hi I found light leaks exactly like yours in my BessaRF. The pictures were taken using a 6x4.5 mask, and tape side is where the roll starts. Given Bessa RF and II are about the same design, could you help me figure out where the leak is?

From the threads I got an idea it might be a crack, but I couldn't find any damage on the body. However, I did open the top plate to adjust the rangefinder. I'm not sure if it's the top plate or parts inside not properly secured.

Many thanks!

 

[Dan Daniel]

Hi I found light leaks exactly like yours in my BessaRF. The pictures were taken using a 6x4.5 mask, and tape side is where the roll starts. Given Bessa RF and II are about the same design, could you help me figure out where the leak is?

From the threads I got an idea it might be a crack, but I couldn't find any damage on the body. However, I did open the top plate to adjust the rangefinder. I'm not sure if it's the top plate or parts inside not properly secured.

Many thanks!

Put the film insode as it would be when shot. Not where the leaks lend up. Your leak looks to be at a roller, what with the sort of hard line on one side. But hard to say for certain. Remember that the leak usually happens before or after the film is in the opening, not when actually exposed.

 

[PTxIVZ]

T

Put the film insode as it would be when shot. Not where the leaks lend up. Your leak looks to be at a roller, what with the sort of hard line on one side. But hard to say for certain. Remember that the leak usually happens before or after the film is in the opening, not when actually exposed.

Thanks for your reply. I think it comes from the take up side since there is leak ahead of the first frame? When you say roller do you mean the spool?

 

[BobUK]

Assuming you develop your own.

Have you thought of placing cut down printing paper into the film plane and extended into the roll holder spaces.
Close the back, then hold a torch close to the suspected corner.
Develop as usual.
You may find the location of the leak without spending a fortune on more rolls of film.

Try with the emulsion side towards the lens with one piece, and one facing towards the pressure plate.
You only get the one exposure but it may be enough to locate the light leak.

I first used this on a Russian Cosmic 35 when the camera was just out of warranty, and Noah was a lad.
That was cured with a home made tight fitting felt washer placed around the release button inside the top cover.

Of course you have to mark the paper and case so you know the orientation after removal, and development.

 

[Dan Daniel]

T

Thanks for your reply. I think it comes from the take up side since there is leak ahead of the first frame? When you say roller do you mean the spool?

I mean the thin silver roller on each side just outside the film opening. I bet that when the film is in position the short flare is right next to one of these.

 

[PTxIVZ]

That makes sense of the funny shape of these fogs! Except on my copy they are black (or oxidized XD). I couldn't find anything in front of those rollers that could have projected a leak on to the film, but I guess a gap from the side might also do. I'll start with replacing sealers on both sides.

Besides, I'm in love with this lens after calibrating the focusing (maybe Rodinal also helped neutralize its "softness")

 

[PTxIVZ]

Assuming you develop your own.

Have you thought of placing cut down printing paper into the film plane and extended into the roll holder spaces.
Close the back, then hold a torch close to the suspected corner.
Develop as usual.
You may find the location of the leak without spending a fortune on more rolls of film.

Try with the emulsion side towards the lens with one piece, and one facing towards the pressure plate.
You only get the one exposure but it may be enough to locate the light leak.

I first used this on a Russian Cosmic 35 when the camera was just out of warranty, and Noah was a lad.
That was cured with a home made tight fitting felt washer placed around the release button inside the top cover.

Of course you have to mark the paper and case so you know the orientation after removal, and development.

Thank you for the advice !I do develop but I haven't invested in any enlargement yet so I don't have any paper. In the near future I can see myself shooting direct paper maybe

 

[JB141]

Hello there,

I too recently acquired a Bessa II Heliar. It was just repaired by one of the supposedly best workshops in Europe, but after my two test-rolls I'm also experiencing exactly the same light leaks. Am I correct in assuming that the other side is affected in my case? Attached are photos of the negatives and what I believe to be the camera side. The negatives are the last two frames. Sorry I might be a bit slow, but did somebody figure out a final fix?

Thank you very much in advance, I'm happy i found this forum.

 

[loccdor]

Welcome to Photrio. That leak looks like it's located at the bottom of the shiny roller. You may want to get some self adhesive felt or foam and experiment on covering that area.

Unfortunately most repairers don't do a film test for light leaks, but light seals are simple enough to replace yourself.

An alternative that would probably solve your particular case is adding some kind of leather half-case to the camera, either old or newly manufactured... the old ones have two halves that can be separated and you can just use the bottom.

 

[JB141]

Welcome to Photrio. That leak looks like it's located at the bottom of the shiny roller. You may want to get some self adhesive felt or foam and experiment on covering that area.

Unfortunately most repairers don't do a film test for light leaks, but light seals are simple enough to replace yourself.

An alternative that would probably solve your particular case is adding some kind of leather half-case to the camera, either old or newly manufactured... the old ones have two halves that can be separated and you can just use the bottom.

View attachment 416749

Yes, unfortunately the leather-case which came with the camera did not fit the camera, nor the framecounting window.. and the Bessa i ones also do not fit the ii. I'm so sorry but what exactly do you mean with shiny roller. Also am I right to assume that when i look at the opened back my lightleak comes from the bottom left?

 

[loccdor]

Yes, unfortunately the leather-case which came with the camera did not fit the camera, nor the framecounting window.. and the Bessa i ones also do not fit the ii. I'm so sorry but what exactly do you mean with shiny roller. Also am I right to assume that when i look at the opened back my lightleak comes from the bottom left?

I think bottom-right.

 

[loccdor]

You could also very well have a leak from the clasp of the camera back and the roller might only be reflecting it toward the film. The black rope I see in your picture of the clasp might not be providing a full seal.

 

[Bill Burk]

I agree bottom, but it’s trailing edge so we’re looking on the wrong side. Look at the hinge

 

[JB141]

Little update, i'm going to try to get rid of the light like this.

 

[loccdor]

Good luck. Sometimes on these old rangefinders things could get slightly bent and require seals where originally they might not have.

 

[Klaus_H]

I had a similar light leak with an ISKRA II camera. The cause was a tiny gap between the housing and the bellows. The fault could be detected by shining a bright flashlight on the inside of the camera in a dark room. A glimmer of light could then be seen from the front of the camera at the bellows attachment.

 

[Bill Burk]

The places you added flocking go deep into channels so light won’t leak. But the hinge shows a light wedge and that’s the area where you need supplemental light sealing.

 

[JB141]

The places you added flocking go deep into channels so light won’t leak. But the hinge shows a light wedge and that’s the area where you need supplemental light sealing.

View attachment 417128

Thank you! I'm going to try that next. Second test roll also shows exactly the same leak.