Yeah - there is a significant improvement with the 12bit temporal dithering. My first version used 16 frames, but I tweaked it up to 64 to reduce the chance of artifacts. Tbh 16 was already good.
I noticed the difference when I was using avandesanes software and I had misunderstood how his...
Beautiful print.
You using the 8K screen or the 16k one? Mine is 10.1” 8K, so its driver does 8bit - and I use temporal dithering to get a 12bit tonal range (using 64 frames over a 3.2s repeating loop). My exposure times for an 8x10 at f81/2 are around 40s so I get plenty of loops in that...
I’ve been vibe-coding my own software to run the 10.1” 8K screen in my Durst L184.
One thing I’ve found useful is to render a specific test strip image for determining exposure rather than using the image I’m printing.
The one displayed with the print was done to confirm the exposure (so...
I'm curious - if the screen is running at 20Hz and you are temporal dithering from 1bit to get 12bit tones - how long are your exposures? Back of the envelope calc says that would need over 3 minutes to get all the tones. Or are you actully running it faster?
Also, using a good LUT for my paper...
I just bought a 7” 10k screen to put in my 5x7 durst. I’m working on some software to control it and doing the coding on my MacBook Pro. I won’t use the Mac in the darkroom, but would like to use the new screen for testing/debugging my work.
Has anyone managed to create custom resolutions for...
Thanks, that makes sense. I'll probably just set the loop duration at 1s and then I'll effectively have 16fps for the exposure duration. Did you progress with getting a 16k screen to work?
Hi Aaron,
I've been using your software with my setup quite successfully - but I'm having a go at writing my own using Python so that I can customise the workflow and make it more touch-screen friendly (and play around with learning Python with AI assistance). I'm bench testing on my macbook...
That’s pretty much how I made the curve I use now - except I used a 21step wedge of 5% density increase. The curve works fine at any enlargement in terms of full contrast range, but I don’t yet have a quick way of determining the correct exposure at any given enlargement without doing a test...
Theoretically I can go up to 1000w… but I’d need to find a 1000w 11cm opal lamp (virtually impossible) and pay for it (>$500AUD plus shipping).. and I’d have to install a cooling fan.
If I want to go any brighter and keep the condensers it will have to be a high-power LED alternative.
Just installed a 300w lamp and now I have 26s 8x10 exposures at f11 :)
With the new curve, and a single 1/4 stop test strip I’m getting to a good print for a given enlargement (all prints can use the same time if the enlargement doesn’t change).
Excellent shadow detail.
My L184 currently has a 200W incandescent opal lamp and the 10x10” condensers - and my exposure times for 8x10 prints with a 240mm f5.6 Componon-s lens using pretty much the full screen size are up around 30s at f8.
f8 is probably ok sharpness wise, but I’d rather be using f11 - so if I went to...
My setup is working pretty well. I also have the 10.1” 8K display, mounted in the neg carrier for my L184 8x10 enlarger.
I finally managed to make a decent curve by scanning the step wedge print and entering the lab values into the SCTV Curve Creator tool here...
Yeah, this is the result of doing exactly that - used Wet Print’s web curve tool to make the adjustment curve (which does pretty much the same as excel I think). It’s better than the eyeball one I did before.
Also - I don’t have much experience with digital printing in the first place - so it’s also possible that I’m adjusting the image on screen in a way that is compressing the blacks in the print. Got a bit of a learning curve to go through.
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