Recent content by Sparks n Fire

Have you tried a normal bromide emulsion? Chloro-Bromide emulsions by default give warmer images if im not mistaken. You might also try doping the emulsion to adjust the characteristics, here is a patent that talks about that.

panchromatic sensitisation leaves you in the dark, I've found a dye that acts as a super sensitiser to erythrosine and gives it almost panchromatic sensitivity, up to 620nm, eosin y, I found it sold as a microscope slide stain. Add the erythrosine and the eosin y right at the beginning. They are...

looks like a solid formula, might i suggest tho that the erythrosine be added to solution A, it is usually only really effective if used during the precipitation so it becomes part of the halide grains as they form.

erythrosine imparts orthochromatic sensitivity, what dye are you using to make it panchromatic?

I have a document here that I typed up to work out weights and amounts for a patent I want to replicate, I also have a snippet from photo engineers book that should answer your surface area question.

Oh fantastic, Im planning to build pretty much the same system, ive attached the stepper motor, driver and Arduino mega and am getting the motor to turn quickly but cant get it to step slowly. Ya for the precipitation method you are using, you need an excess of bromide if you want a good grain...

how are you planning to add so many solutions at the same time in a controlled manner? I've been doing a lot of research on recipes similar to what you described and am working on building my own rig for emulsion precipitation.

I may have some insights on this. I recently found a patent that describes the mechanism of direct positive paper. Silver chloride will fog completely to black in a developer given there is no free bromide present. If you use a really slow chloride emulsion with just a little bit of a silver...

i would but she wont respond to any communication, i dont know if i offended her or something.

I have a question about oswald ripening. I've read that oswald ripening is more effective when the emulsion is not stirred. I've experienced that this results in settling of the bromide and some recipes say to ripen with stirring and some say to ripen without stirring, many just say to ripen for...

the halation is very subtle but is most noticeable right on the boarder of the negative, its a soft glow that impacts the sharpness. I'm in the middle of my engineering exams so haven't had much time to test. They are soon over so you will be seeing many more experiments and optimizations...

the book i referenced was Photographic-Emulsions-by-E-J-Wall-1929 page 84 (pdf page 96), just search the book on google and you will find downloadable PDF copies. The recipes in there are far more up to date than other books of the same period. adding the dye directly to the emulsion might...

Ever since I started making my own emulsion I've not been satisfied with with the softened edges around bright objects in the photo as a result of halation caused by internal reflection of the glass/acetate base. I've managed to find more than one book that cites the use of a 0.6% solution of...

ive not sent enough messages on this forum to be able to DM you :/ is there another way i can contact you?

im looking for something with fairly even contrast. Is that ISO the emulsion with no sensitisers? I have Photographic Emulsion Technique saved but can't get access to Photographic Emulsion Making, Coating and Testing and id really like to read it. How did you get access to it? N.N