Osaka is an interesting place, if a bit intimidating due to its size. There are many local attractions reachable by commuter train and many more regional destinations within an hour via the regular rail network. The old U-bahn rolling stock in Berlin was actually made in Osaka!
High depth of field definitely exacerbates dust problems. And if you really want to see all the dust on your sensor, shoot with a pinhole (you can improvise one from common foil if you do not wish to purchase a photo-grade pinhole.)
I recently acquired an OM Systems TG-7 as a new compact camera. From a hardware standpoint, it seems an excellent little piece of kit, and I have already had reason to appreciate the waterproof and shock-resistant properties. But in my opinion, the firmware sucks, and kneecaps the camera...
I have a Coolscan 9000 which is my main workhorse for digitizing film images. A few years ago, I invested in an FH-869G carrier which I used quite a bit for both MF and for 35mm panoramic images--very handy. But mine disappeared sometime in the last year. It could conceivably have been stolen...
Here is something shot on 40-year-old Ektachrome. The original had poor color balance and contrast, but a salvageable image was very much there, and all margin markings were present and legible. If there is no trace of any markings or image at all, something in addition to age is at...
Shot a roll, through a Hoya R72 filter, estimating working ISO around 6 for starters. Processed said roll alongside two rolls of Rollei IR400 (Microphen, stock, 7.5 minutes, 22C.) Expected the film to be a tad slower than the Rollei but actually the negatives came out a bit overexposed, more so...
Second the recommendation of the Autocords. They are decent cameras and not excessively pricy. If they develop problems, they are not too difficult to get fixed. But I do not use the built-in light meters as they are clunky compared to a smartphone app.
Polachrome film also used a tricolor reseau built into the backing (the emulsion was behind the substrate for this reason.) You could salvage this material off some old Polachrome if you wanted to play around with the idea.
I am having trouble understanding the context of that post. One person seems to imply that there is a blocking layer in the base(?) which would not affect emulsion sensitivity from the forward side. But if you were directing UV light through the exposed film (to make Pd/Pt prints, for example)...
I have done UV photography with Tmax 100! It is not an exception! E-6 films are generally overcoated and you really have to force them to see any trace of UV response. A lot of C-41 films are not, however, and I have used some of them (most notably Portra emulsions) to produce UV images.
Many...
I guess what I really want to know is, could this film be developed alongside an existing run of IR400, or would it be wiser to soup it separately? Should one use similar exposure numbers, or something different? Aerial films seem to have been rated differently from ordinary films.
So the FPP is the 200, then?
It was my understanding that Maco initially sold the Efke product and then switched to the Rollei. Some people claim that these latter are the same product, but I can testify that this is not so. The Efke had deeper IR reach and could be used (with difficulty)...
Aviphot Pan 400S looks like a good match--so this is just a higher-contrast version of the Rollei IR film? Should I process it the same? Is there a speed difference, or not?
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