Recent content by revdoc

Rollei 80S isn't even close to ISO 80, which is why you had insufficient shadow detail. I rate it at 25, and get good results. (The same film is sold as RPX25, which is more honest than the 80S branding.)

I hope most people know by now that the Rollei data sheets are of little relevance. I buy RPX25 or Retro 80s, whichever is cheaper. I usually rate it at 25, which is a realistic speed for Aviphot 80 in non-aerial use. I find the recommended development times are also excessive, so adjust those...

Well... it's dirt. Given what you say, it's probably the reel, the tank, or both. Do you use more than one metal tank? Which brand and model? And are they new or used?

In case anyone is interested, this is the last archive of her site, dated January 4, 2022. https://web.archive.org/web/20220104224802/http://www.heatherdaugustine.com/

I'm sure you'll have a great time. Just remember to call them prawns, not shrimp.

I've no doubts about its IR sensitivity. The images with the R72 filter prove that.

Some green vegetation contains a significant amount of red and yellow pigments, usually not visible due to green chlorophyll. So rather than the wood effect, you might just be seeing those.

I'm like you. I only use print developer every now and then and need something easy to make up in small amounts. 250ml does me for a few prints in an 8x10 tray. This is what I use: E72, 250 ml, made up to 1+3 working strength.

Made in the UK - Harman. One stop faster than other papers - Kentmere. Medium weight - Kentmere. Kentmere is available in glossy or "fine lustre". Premier is available in glossy or "pearl". 'Tis most likely a duck, I say.

For evaluating film speed, I look for detail in the darkest shadows. I can see some detail in the shadows at 0.8, so to me, that looks closer to correct than 3. You need to cut development hy a lot. This will not be easy. Which developers do you have on hand? If it's just D76, try diluting 1+8...

Or it's just Kentmere 400...

I can only speak about Obsidian Aqua. It reduces film speed by about a stop, and suppresses grain remarkably well. It definitely stains negatives. I found that the stock solution only lasted a few months, which is why I stopped using it.

One observation: platinum toner will often create a yellow-brown stain if carried on too long. For reference, I tested this and started to get staining at 6 or 7 minutes. For that reason, I generally limit platinum toning to 5 minutes. It helps that I use toner one shot, so toning time very...

Definitely time to freshen up your hypo clear. In solution, sodium sulfite slowly oxidises to sodium sulfate. If it's more than a few months old, I'd discard it. Same thing if it has been used a lot.

Have you seen this? It might provide a solution. https://groups.io/g/altphotolist/topic/staining_when_toning_van_dyke/108087820