Recent content by pkupcik

Decided to do a non-scientific test today and compare 250mm Superachromat against 180mm CFE with 1.4XE and also 2xMutar on Canon 5DIV. Scene was about 4 meters away. Here are my conclusions: 180mm with 1.4XE resolves the same detail as 250mm SA. The image quality is virtually the same, unless...

Sounds like you only need 350mm occasionally. I'm in similar situation, would love to have 350mm or 500mm, but there's no way I'm lugging it around just so I can take few shots with it once in a blue moon. I instead got the 1.4X and 2xMutar. I've used 250SA with 2xMutar with excellent results...

I have mostly used Gitzo 3 series systemic tripod with 250SA without problems; one time on a travel trip I used Gitzo 1 series small travel tripod and ended up with a lot of frames with obvious camera shake, especially when combined with 2x Mutar, but also without it. To this day I don't know if...

If I were you I would buy a matching black back even if you had to wait a little bit until you find one. Now if someone gave me a mismatched kit or I bought one already mismatched for some reason it wouldn't bother me and I would happily use it. But why buy a standalone back that's mismatched if...

Looking at your gear, you have a lot options. If it was me I would like the following options: SWC, 80mm and nothing else. 50, 80mm. If you had a 100, then 50 and 100 plus maybe 2x mutar to get to 200mm Your 80mm is such a small light lens that I would probably build a 2 lens kit around it...

EOS-1V is beautiful camera, congratulations. I also use it with 50L 1.2, luckily don't have any focus issues, what a great camera+lens combo, photos look great and the gear as well :). Hope you resolve your focus adjustment issue.

My favorites right now are Acros 100, HP5+, Delta 3200. If I had to pick my favorite it would be Delta 3200, just love the look in low light conditions, don't care for it in bright light. If I could shoot only one, it would probably be HP5+, it's ISO 400 so fairly versatile, grain is pleasing...

I use primarily film these days, not because it's better or because I can achieve with it something unique, but because the process is fun and the output is different from digital. It's fun experimenting with different films, development techniques, etc. I enjoy the journey as much as the...

I find most fixers pretty cheap, compared to developers. I settled for TF4 in 1 litter bottle of stock solution, very cheap ($13.99), lasts forever. You can use plain water as a stop bath and final wash, cutting on additional chemistry. Good luck.

I've been using TF-4 for a while as well. It comes in liquid form which is the "stock solution". You then dilute 1+3, which gives you working solution. I reuse the working solution for about 20 films and then throw away. I believe it should be good for more than 20, but I just play it safe...

I used to have the same scanner and used the following instructions/notes to set it up on Windows 8, 10, etc. If it doesn't work for you, just use an older laptop with XP or setup a virtual machine on your PC. 1) Install the NikonScan software 2) Connect the scanner 3)Reboot following these...

I have found the combination of Trix and Tmax developer too difficult to control contrast. I could have probably tried harder to optimize the development technique for this combination, but have instead switched to PyrocatHD, which worked great.

Another option is to use a removable chimney style viewfinder for medium format cameras, e.g. Hasselblad. This is convenient especially if you already have a film camera that can use the viewfinder.

Another vote for Ektar, looks great with fall theme, but needs good light. I struggle converting to positive scanned Ektar shot in a shade, hard to get color balance right.

Started with Hasselblad 2003CFW, then moved to 203FE. Would love to try Hasselblad SWC one day.