Recent content by phreon

I performed a quick and dirty test. Given what I could get out of the old bottle, I set up 2 small plastic graduates with 2+100. Left is "fresh" out of the glass bottle, right, the cough syrup dark HC-110 that has by now been in the mostly empty bottle since Tues, 2/16 (6 days). I eyeballed...

That bottle has more than what's left in my bottle by 2 or 3 times.

I *thought* I was going to do a quick test with my 1:63 working solution; of course that was a ludicrous idea. FAR to slow, so I just got on with developing the roll of Fomapan 400 @14 min, 19C. It's drying now, the negatives look decent. I'll come up with a 1:10 test between the developer...

All I can say is the last bottle I ran out years ago had the same general amount of remnant left in the bottle as this one. It was straw colored when I used the last bit and threw the bottle out. I posted this because changing to the color of cherry syrup in 12 hours is completely outside my...

I've main no claims other than this current batch darkened extremely fast in the presence of air, something the old version was much slower to do. I've made zero claims otherwise. However, my understanding has always been that HC-110 going dark was a bad sign. I simply have never had it happen...

The difference is your bottle wasn't mostly air-space, if I've reading you correctly. Did or does your bottle contain and solid precipitates?

I introduced butane into the glass bottle I'm using as an oxygen purge, not the empty plastic bottle. For anyone who's curious, look at the MSDS for Tetanal "Protectan Spray" linked below. It's butane, propane and isobutane - portable cook stove gas. As for testing what's left in the bottle...

I purchased a fresh bottle of HC-110 right before Covid hit in 2020. For obvious reasons, life got in the way and I didn't get around to cracking it open until this past Tuesday, 11/16/2021. The manufacturer's expiration date stamped on it is 11/21. Given the new formulation's unknown...

I have no supplemental thin condenser and these are incredibly difficult to come by at a sane price. The previous owner used a 90mm on 2" cone for every print he ever made. The 1.5" would be better with my 80mm, but I can still achieve focus using a 2" at all magnifications.

I know this is a very late reply, but I just stumbled across this thread. It occurs to me you could get a "good enough for gov't work" idea of a given bulb's spectrum using a dSLR set to fixed white balance mode and a slow enough shutter speed to account for most LED lamps' flicker. If the...

Thanks for the manual! Interesting it mentions using filter gels by just sticking them on top of the heat absorbing glass. I suppose it would work, but would be a pain w/o the drawer/door on the front. My B-8 has the supplemental IR/heat filter, which honestly, seems completely useless given...

I dug up my copy of "Post Exposure". I'll read through it before burning through paper, chemistry. It has been a long time...

What length cone is your 80mm mounted in? The filter drawer was optional early on and became standard later in the B-8's production run. Mine is apparently an early one; I seem to remember being told it was purchased in the mid 50's. I'm the 2nd owner. I inherited everything, the entire...

Hi, I haven't produced a wet print in 12-15 years. Much has changed over the years including paper availability, my preferred format, enlarger I intend to use, chemistry, etc. I'd very much appreciate feedback from you fine folks as I resurrect darkroom. I have a Vivitar E34 and Durst M601...

Hi, This isn't' reticulation. The negatives and images are otherwise perfect except for the missing emulsion spots. I took care to ensure all my chemistry was at room temp (68F by happy accident) and got the wash water within a couple degrees of that. However, I am starting to suspect, as...