Recent content by Pelovsky

if memory serves me well, HAS weakens the process of dye formation and therefore adding HAS to ECN2 developer without any further changes would result in thin negatives. There it is: https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/c-41-without-hydroxylamine.206655/

that's so nice meeting someone speaking Polish from the beautiful city of Kowno :) I didn't do any business with Euroland since the covid pandemic, so I don't know how do they operate now. I've seen their web shops under different names - e.g. esubli.pl. The thing is that the prices they list...

According to Kodak's ECN-2 process specification (H.24.7) page 7-33: "the fixer pH should never be allowed to fall below 5.5, since low fixer pH affects the dye stability of Kodak color negative films."

I wouldn't be so sure about it. At least in ORWO's color processes you weren't supposed to use acidic fixer, beacuse it affected the dyes. I'd thought that C41 fixer - e.g. Fujihunt Negacolor Fixer - is widely available and cheap (it is in Poland, 50 euros for 4x10l concentrate).

I run through a few rolls of this 4MD paper in the past. The RC support was similair to Fuji CA, colors were a tad more vibrant than Fuji CA, but it scratched quite easily. Back then it was dirt cheap (I got it on some sale or offer or whatever at approx. 20 euros per 30cm x 80m roll). Color...

After many years of doing b&w, I find that the total cost of RA4 printing (chemistry, paper, electricity, water) is SO LOW, that I feel like a king. I don't bother doing test strips with color prints, and when I am in doubt if the filtration is right, I just pop 3 or 4 more sheets with different...

That would be a dream come true. 🥰

I have MP160 that I mixed into full HDPE bottles at the end of 2022 and it is still going strong with no signs of oxidation (pale yellow colour, normal contrast, deep blacks). I'd suggest using wine bladders or fresh (as in not used before for anything else) HDPE bottles. MP160 is so cheap, that...

Over the weekend I shot and developed some ORWO NC3 film that I got from a friend of mine in 2018 in exchange for some CD1. The ORWO NC3 film is a tungsten balanced negative film with BH perforation, intended for tv and cinematic productions. I shot it @12-25ASA and developed in modified ORWO...

You're not alone in that :D I think if you have this film on hand and want to play - play by the rules, that's the only way to get the nostalgic look people search (and long) for. Especially now, when Internet provides you with all the knowledge and possibilities to do so. that and the fact...

that's an interesting experiment. I have had very nice results with 16mm NC3 developed in native C5166 chemistry, and mixed results with UT15 and UT21 souped in C9165. The biggest problem with UT films was always base fog. If the fog was within reasonable margin, the colors you'd get developing...

I think you should always follow the manual for the kit you are using. There's definitely no stop bath or no water wash before bleach or blix and after developer in Fujihunt kit (c41 xpress) I am using. I have not seen it mentioned in the Tetenal Colortec kit I used to use, nor in Rollei...

It's harder to mantain the temperature of the solutions inside the tank precisely at 41.1C, when the ambient temperature is ca. 21-22C. Even if you pre-heat (obviously you have to with ecn2 as you remove remjet before development) the tank, when you pour the dev solutions inside the tank, and...

TBH during my journey I almost completely abandoned trying to get nice colors out of ECN2 films, and then decided to go full monty - fresh CD3 in industrial amount, AF2000, sulphuric acid stop bath, recalculating the development time, getting a professional lab circulator (old but gold). It paid...

thank you :) I've seen it before. My journey with developing and optically printing ECN2 films goes back a few years, I had my ups and downs :D developing them (all sorts and generations of Vision films) in Tetenal Colortec C41 at 30C and 38C, using blix, then separate ferricyanide bleach and...