Recent content by Palmer

Pentaxuser: I've been trying to get my wife to wear something other than black for about 20 years. No real luck yet but on the days she does mix it up she wears black pants with a white top. Can you believe it?! The other thing she likes to do is to put her hands against her face when I...

Pentaxuser, thanks for alerting me to this video. I am familiar with John Finch's Youtube channel and his videos are worth watching. I can't remember if I've seen the FX 55 videos or not but I will definitely have look. Thanks. Considering my Pan F should have been rated at EI 25 due to...

Oh, thank you, Sean. Steve

Yes, most likely just friction and I expect the graphite will do the trick. As I said, some films are worse than others. Some just slide on very easily. The reels are pretty clean although many years ago I did have a problem with sticky reels that may have been caused by the wetting agent...

I have never thought of using a graphite pencil to lubricate a reel before. I do the same thing on keys that are a bit sticky. That's a good tip and I'll remember it. Thanks. I did go back and blast the reel with a hairdryer for a minute and then the film went straight on with no...

Well, the results are in and they're not great but not unexpected either. I decided to use MYTOL stock for 9 minutes @ 20 celcius. 30 seconds initial agitation then 10 seconds of agitation every minute. The negatives are still drying but as expected the shadow detail is not great. There...

Albada, I will definitely let you know how it turns out - if I can get the film onto the reel. Raghu, thanks for the suggestion of SLIMT. I've not used this process before but have read a little about it and must try it out. Thanks for your processing recommendations. Steve

Matt, thank you. If my accounts can be merged, that would be nice but if not, it's OK. It was my fault initially as I forgot my password. The problem was, if I remember correctly, that I had trouble changing my password. That's why I created a new account. Photrio is a great site and a...

Thanks everyone for your suggestions. Apologies for ruffling some feathers by mentioning the "stand" word. I only asked about stand development because I have Rodinal on hand and didn't think just extending developing time with Rodinal would work, so I asked about stand development...

As the title states, I stupidly thought I had my camera loaded with FP4+, and rated at EI160, but I actually had Pan F+ loaded. So, it's been under exposed by a stop and a half, (not a lot but it is Pan F+) and I'm seeking recommendations from the brains trust as to which of the following...

Thanks once again for all your input. To those suggesting I put some developer away and age it for later use, I plan on doing just that. I'll even make sure the developer has a dozen prints run through it first as the developer in question was partially used. Railwayman, I have used paper...

Thank you for your responses and suggestions. Pentaxuser, I may have misled you. The old developer I used was old WORKING SOLUTION. I mixed it several months ago at a dilution of 1+3 from the stock Bromophen. I stored the working strength solution in a black concertina bottle with ALL...

Here is a rough scan of the negative print. Ignore the vertical lines, they are just from the cheap scanner. The Horizontal lines are due to this being a print of test strips. The print is of my wife who won't want me to post the positive print online (she's a shy one) but I can tell you...

My understanding is that the Sabbatier Effect and Solarization require either long exposure times in camera or exposure to white light at the printing stage. Neither of these occurred with my print. I will upload an image of print the first chance I get. Steve

As the title says, I was using some old working solution Bromophen print developer that would have been a couple of months or more old. I knew the developer was old but it was in a bottle that was full to the top and the solution still looked clear so I thought I'd try it and see what...