The EOS 3 is a very large camera. It is actually larger than the EOS 1 and EOS 1n, and nearly identical in size to the EOS 1v. The EOS 3 uses more plastic construction, and is lighter than the 1 Series.
One nice thing about the EOS 3 is that it shares all the same battery grips as the EOS 1 series. Lots of battery options, and also size and weight options.
The shutter release cable is from an old manual focus film camera with a conventional shutter button. The EOS cameras have electronic shutters and that cable will not work.
That part is part of the latching mechanism for the film door. That part alone won’t stop the camera from working.
The EOS 620 does have a history of the backlight circuit draining the battery. Cutting the wire eliminates the battery drain, but it will never prevent the camera from turning on...
Nikon uses the same -1.0 value as Canon. The Nikon “0.0“ is also a corrective value just like Canon.
More info here: https://www.nikonusa.com/p/00-neutral-correction-eyepiece/2930/overview
I have both cameras, but rarely use either one. I would get the EOS-1V for the adjustable eyepiece diopter control and better build.
Most people say the eye control AF is more of a gimmick. The EOS-1 is only slightly larger and heavier with the standard grip. (150g heavier)
Both cameras can...
Circular and Linear polarizers both work exactly the same way. You screw it onto your filter threads and then rotate the filter element to get the effect you want. Either one will work perfectly fine in a Rangefinder.
It will be impossible to see the polarizing effect when it is on the lens...
You need a Remote Switch 60 which is also used in the A-1 Motor Drive MA and the AE-1 Program Power Winder A2.
It uses a standard 2.5mm (1/10”) sub mini plug, so you could even make one yourself quite easily.
The Remote Switch RS-60E3 for newer EOS AF cameras will also work.
My latest are 2 Canon Canonet rangefinders I got on ebay for $2.25 plus $20.27 shipping.
eBay auction listing
One has a misaligned rangefinder but the other one operates just fine.
That sounded like the shutter fired when the mirror went down. I would check the Custom Functions to make sure Mirror Lockup is off. But even if it is enabled, there shouldn’t be a BC error.
Most of these BC errors result in the shutter not firing at all, and no mirror movement. I call this a “sticking shutter magnet”. This can often be fixed with by either tapping the magnet, or putting a strong magnet near it.
It sounds you have a more serious problem with yours.
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