Recent content by maltfalc

here's another idea to digest: 3d print a new one in tpu.

good quality liquid electrical tape should work, but a bottle will cost more than a new hood.

most of my gear is beat to hell. why pay three times as much for nicer gear that i'd have to be more careful with?

the only thing you should ever do to kill fungus on photo gear is keep it dry. that's it. uv won't kill any fungus that isn't on the outer surface. sunlight will only kill fungus by warming up and drying out the camera, and if you put the camera back in a damp environment, the fungus will come...

why bother? whatever the exact voltage is, it's obviously nowhere near the over 700v it would need to be.

sounds like they pulled an alien bees, making their model numbers double the capacity.

a regular 3-way head with some extra sticky grease would be good enough for me.

a laser is the absolute last thing you should ever use. normal leds have higher output and will give much smoother illumination. a laser will litter your print with magnified shadows of every microscopic speck of dust between it and your print and all sorts of diffraction artifacts. also, i've...

filters don't reduce flare, they increase it. you can't polish away heavy scratches without impacting image quality. fill them in with black marker, india ink, etc. and carefully buff off the excess.

1.6v at zero current draw is meaningless. if their internal resistance is too high you'll get too much of a voltage drop at high currents to charge your capacitor to the minimum voltage necessary to fire, and your batteries will quickly die. better off using nimh, they can handle much higher...

get a tiny metric keychain tape measure, mount it to the side of your rear standard and mount a small clip to your front standard. set your front standard to infinity focus, extend the tape to your lens's focal length and clip it to the front standard. now the tape will automatically show the...

keep in mind, rotolight only gets the higher output of their flash mode by running their leds at a power level they can only sustain for a very short period of time. you might still be limited to 1/60s worth of flash even at 1/4s shutter speed if 1/60s is the max duration of rotolight's flash...

leds are fine as continuous lights, but as flashes they're obscenely overpriced and underpowered garbage with inferior colour rendering. xenon flashes with built-in led continuous lights are a good option though if you need both.

thanks. this is my second one. first one was in even worse condition when i got it. both from sellers right by the beach on the east coast, so the pair of them only cost me $300 american. any lens huh...

using an analog video camera would technically be pre-digital, but if you want to do it without any sort of electronic processing, your best option would be firing a flash through it in a dark room to burn a nice bright positive afterimage into your retinas.