Recent content by JoJo

I use selfmade IR-goggles since many years and I don't want to miss them. I add a camera in the center of TV-videoglasses. The camera must be B/W. Illumination of the darkroom is done by 940nm LED floodlight. The camera itself has some IR-LEDs to enhance near field brightness. 8 years ago, when...

I built an LED-head using 128 LEDs RGB which should be used for color printing. The total power is around 20 Watt. When enlarging a 6x9mm negative to 12x18 (enlarging factor 2) using a 105mm lens at aperture of 8, exposure times exceed 1 minute at full power! There is no way to make large...

I think it is a combination of multiple problems.. I had a quick look at a datasheet. For example, forward voltage of green and blue LEDs increases more with junction temperature than the voltage for red LEDs does. Maybe your voltage for green and blue is too high for proper current regulation...

Sensitivity of the paper rapidly drops at wavelength >700nm. You have 10times less sensitivity at 725 and 100times less sensitivity at 750nm. So it is not really IR-sensitive. You can use IR-light at 800nm or above without any problems. 700nm is the area between visible and infrared light. Some...

You really should use some test patterns. Late evening sun and blue shadows are not the best test objects. Such pictures cannot be filtered correctly, not with RGB-Led and even not with halogen lamp. Maybe you sould try to make a neutral grey step. Use an unexposed strip of the film for the red...

I find the results not too bad for this kind of lamp. Also it is nearly impossible to judge colors at a PC screen which may be not calibrated. One problem could be, that such LED lamps are not temperature stabilized. LEDs are very temperature sensitive (variation of output power as well as shift...

For me this looks like very old and expired paper. Joachim

Berndard, like George said, I think your film is very much underexposed. As the blue sensitve layer is the most sensitive one, it appears first (in yellow). I have a huge roll of 70mm print film and did some experiments some years ago. This kind of film is very low sensitive. Maybe it was caused...

Fujicolor Crystal Archive Writable. But is just available in matte surface. Joachim

I used it stock. But the temperature was a bit lower (35°C). The black parts being too bright can also be because too weak CD processing. CD process goes to the end, so you can increase CD deveoping time a lot. I cannot say if results for different films are the same. I used Kodak E100D only...

No, I wrote "Also 12 minutes at 35°C, so much much longer than standard C-41." At 38C I guess around 8-10 Minutes.

I used the standard concentrate which tells for example "for 1000ml". Time was 12 minutes at 35 degrees C.

It is not restricted to engineers. But to understand things right, it is not always the best way to simplify too much. You can find 100s of discussions in forums how to "remove" the mask. Once people KNOW how it works they will never ask this question again :-) The following Kodak document...

Yes, the film I used is E100D 35mm cinefilm. It is for process E-6. The developer was "Adox Atomal 49" I bought in Germany. Sorry, not "A49". I am not sure if the developer is the same like old ORWO A49. But you are right, it contains some kind of color developer. I am not sure if there are...

It is not. Coupler in green sensitive film layer is colored yellow and coupler in red sensitive layer is colored magenta. When magenta dye is formed in the green layer, the yellow colored coupler looses its color proportional. When cyan dye is formed in th red layer, magenta color is removed...