@Chromium VI these look quite detailed! Did they survive the drying or did they fade in the end? One thing I found helpful to prevent paper from going all wavy is to make sure that the liquid covers the whole sheet, leaving no dry areas, and overflows a bit. It's even worth it to press the...
@Jan de Jong You need to raise the pH a bit, as Anton mentioned, and NaHCO₃ works just fine. But if you mix NaHCO₃ directly into the solution of CuSO₄ and AA, it may be difficult to actually get the copper precipitate on the paper (you can make a copper mirror this way though). What helps is to...
Paper can seriously affect the results, and finding the right paper can be tricky. There's always a little copper on the negative, but some paper just doesn't want to cooperate. I found one local brand of inexpensive drafting paper to work really well, but some of the more expensive watercolor...
I found some old prints, and took photos of those. Neither is great, but they may be helpful as a reference.
1. The one with the ugly guy with a blue nose (mabuse.jpg) was printed from the same negative image as in the video from the first message. Maybe it's even the same print. As you can see...
I did try different ways to tone the images, but had very little success, to be honest. As far as I understand the chemistry of the process, it's ultimately Cu²⁺ being reduced to metallic copper in the exposed areas, so the image is formed by metallic copper, but it's quickly oxidized to copper...
This process can be quite fiddly to set up and often depends on the specific paper type you use. Also the mixture seems to be sensitive to oxygen, so you need it to be covered with your negative pretty much as soon as it touches the paper.
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