Recent content by Iridium

Thanx. This is exactly what I do from now on.

@koraks thanx once again. I'll do it & I'll let you know.

After your help with the output format options better for b&w negatives, I need your help again for another issue. I scanned my b&w negatives in 16bit raw grayscale TIFFs & then inverted & edited the images in Photoshop. I noticed that when viewing these PH edited TIFF images in the Windows...

Thanx all. After your thoughts and some tests, I ended up to go with the 16 bit HDR Raw setting of the Silverfast SE in Epson V700 b&w scanning. I liked more the result than scanning in 48 bit for example & then converting to b&w in photoshop.

Thanx @Alan9940 I do exactly stick to the "16-bit HDR Raw" option. It seems that I get better grayscale rendering for the 35mm b&w film.

Thanx @koraks . In fact, I didn't make the post to argue for EpsonScan/Silverfast. I use the Silverfast SE & I just asked what other users recommend for output bit depth instead of direct 16bit grayscale which is not available in SE.

Of course I've tried Epson Scan, but the Silverfast is a more dedicated software for film scanning with great results. I have the Silverfast SE version & as I don't intend to upgrade, I just ask from other users their opinion for better results on b&w film scanning.

Ultimate quality for me. As I don't have the option with Silverfast SE to scan directly in 16 bit, I'm trying to find the best alternative & I ask others what they choose when they use Silverfast. Thanx

Hello, I'm a bit confused & need help. I scan my b&w negatives in an EPSON V700 Photo with the Silverfast 9 SE. SE version doesn't have the option of 16 bit. Therefore, my question is: how do I get the best depth output? 1. Choosing 48->24 bit & then converting in Photoshop to Grayscale &...

@koraks thanx for your recommendation. I also read your very informative article, but I still feel confused. As far as I understand, the idea of making solution of 500ml of developer and use it in 3 cycles of 250ml, 2 rolls/cycle/day will be tricky for the last cycle? Mixing the first used...

Thanx all for your help. I take into account your experiences. As long as Fuji recommends to reuse the developer, I intend to mix 500ml of developer (same with all chemicals) each time, use it in 3 days in a row to process each time/day 2 rolls of 120 400ISO in a 4312 Jobo tank which needs...

I read that the "surge marks" occur "....at sprocket holes on 35mm film in which agitation is too high" & I am just wondering how is it possible that these marks may occur due to preheating of the tank (rotating tank without water inside) & it doesn't happen during the developer flow? Of course...

I 've got the Fuji C-41 kit to process my 120 rolls in a Jobo CPE2 processor with 1520 tank on the magnet drive. I've tried to read & watch almost everything on the net, but still confusing about first the Fuji/Jobo instructions & then the capacity of the chemicals. Regarding the water wash...

@jvo Thanx. I'll look for smth similar to the NXENTC, cause this one isn't available, particularly in Europe or from Asia.

Nice idea, I have never thought it and never tried it.