Recent content by iakustov

I bought velvia in 220 fresh from Kumar when it was still in production, there are still some 100+ rolls in my freezer as I don't shoot more than 10 rolls / year.

Apart from having more frames per roll: When I last bought 100+ fresh rolls of Velvia 100 in 220 it was cheaper than 2x 120 (when it was still in production). And since I develop with Tetenal kit in a Paterson tank, it is more convinient to develop 220 film.

Meter for the darkest spot you want to be have details for, meter for the lightest spot, take the average. In my Minolta Spotmeter F there are Memo and Average buttons for this. You want to make sure the difference is not more than 5 stops or so.

Follow instructions that come with the chemistry. With Tetenal and Paterson tank I agitate every 15 seconds (swirling)

I purchased new catechol, but its colour is similar to one in my post #1. I mixed a new batch from it and developed a not so important sheet, and it came fine. So, from now on everytime I mix a new batch I will make a test first, as it looks like the catechol I can get in retail over here is not...

Thanks for this tip! I use glassless slide mounts for 35mm, Provia film curls badly (whereas Ektachrome is flat) which causes troubles during projection. I respooled the freshly developed and dried film as you said emulsion side out and two days later it was perfectly flat. I tried the same with...

It is not that difficult, I only use a thermometer, dont own a thermostat for temp control. Actually the tolerance is not that strict, for E6 with Tetenal kit only first developer and first wash should be within +-0.5C-0.7C or so. For C41 with Tetenal it is certainly not that strict to make a...

I develop in Paterson tank both C41 and E6 with Tetenal kits. I get better quality than from an average minilab. Temperature control is the key, but with practice you will get consistent, predictable results without the need of expensive equipment.

Misread the title I thought you were going to produce the ULF developing tray..

I use SP810 tray and only touch negatives when loading, I unload with gloves on and haven't had such problems with sheet film before so I believe the fingerprints were not removed during development. So, it looks like you cannot tell if catechol is fine just by judging its colour.. Thanks, I...

I just developed a sheet of FP4 whole plate in fresh home mixed D76 and it came out just fine, so can rule out the fixer, I suppose. My metabisulfite is fresh, so it looks like catechol is indeed the issue. If I remember correctly there was a discussion about proper colour of Metol recently and...

Thanks! My metol is also not white, but works fine.. Thank you! I use tap running water for the stop bath. So, it looks like I have to search for fresh catechol now.

Today I mixed a fresh stock of Pyrocat-M (stock A: metol 2.5g/l, metabisulfite 10g/l, pyrocatechin 50g/l) and developed four FP4 4x5 sheets with standard dilution (I use 20% sodium carbonate for stock B so my dilution is 1+5+94). I presoak for a couple of mins. They came out ugly - very thin...

I dont know the answer and will be interesting to know what others do. I guess you will have to make sure your DOF is large enough to accommodate the change in focus with IR. For large format I suppose this means wide angle lenses stopped down, and if tilts / swings are applied it will be more...

I got mine (older “silver” version in Compur shutter, 105mm filter thread) for around 800 USD recently.