Recent content by Guy S

Well it seems the answer is going to be the usual boring “middle of the road” cautious approach. Assess your likely need of the materials in future, consider the ability to reproduce them given changes in computing, how much anyone would bother, how important or valuable the images are to you or...

Wonderful, was clipping the right edge intentional? It make the scene look much more extemporaneous but I think maybe it takes away from the contrast between the geometric and the round (or bouba and kiki if you know about that)

I can't stand manual focusing through an EVF. Even with focusing highlights.

I don't really understand it myself even as I do it. I think if I had a digital camera exactly the same as my favourite film cameras in shape and controls, I have no idea if I would find it as pleasing as using film. Maybe I just haven't found the right digicam.

prints, slides and digital files (provided the hard/software is on hand) are directly viewable, negatives always need to be transformed

I don’t want to get typecast as an inveterate film-disposer, I keep all negatives I develop myself. But this argument holds for film too, one burst pipe, flood or fire and poof! Those somewhat flammable negs (still better than nitrocellulose) are ashes or sodden beyond recovery. How many here...

I agree with everything in your post especially about slides and b&w film. But I do not see needing colour negs in future beyond the benefits as a physical backup. Regardless my preferred lab will keep negs on file for a year incase customers come back for them.

Its a whole new world out there! Most people taking photos will have literally no use of colour negatives. They will not print them on RA4 and unless they invest heavily in a scanning setup the scans the lab offer will be better than anything they could do at home. If shipping negatives back...

yes, unfortunately the guide didn't mention there was slop in between the screw holes and the threading underneath that would affect it so much. The slop is only a mm or two. The metering trick won't work, I don't think, as the camera meters wide open. Thanks though as you gave me an idea, and...

Okay so for anyone following up on this it turns out the aperture assembly has some range of motion to rotate when screwing it in that determines how much the blades move for each setting. It will be difficult to calibrate this unless I can calculate the virtual aperture from the physical...

Should say that its a 50mm f1.8 with the new FD mount

I’m helping a friend sell their AE-1 and I noticed it wasnt stopping down under any circumstances. Using a short guide I removed the aperture from the front and cleaned it up. It was jammed open from oil. Upon reinstalling it Ive noticed it stops down too much. About 1.5-2 stops too small...

Ahh of course

If you meter the brightest areas (the meter presuming its 18% grey) and then close by two stops further wouldn’t that massively underexpose everything? Did you mean that you should meter the highlights to expose them at like zone IX and the drop them two stops?

Well it seems like the advice is to continue pretty much what I've been doing and just get better at judging when to apply a compensation where appropriate for my camera. I mainly asked because while I don't currently print in the darkroom, I'd like to learn and want to produce negatives that I...