Recent content by grain elevator

It's plainly impossible, at least if you want to maintain decent image quality. Sometimes, the front or rear group of a lens will work as a lens on its own, and that is used on so-called convertible lenses, for large format. AFAIK the part-lenses are always longer FLs than the whole lens. But...

As TEA is not a chemical formula and thus a international and interdisciplinary standard nomenclature but a convenient acronym, that's more of an if you know, you know sort of deal. But yes, it can be used safely, if one knows what's they're doing, and that's not beyond what an amateur can...

Sorry to sound so harsh, but if you have so little knowledge of chemistry to not know the chemical formula, please don't mess with the stuff. It's far from harmless.

Great projekt! I don't have the time for the darkroom print in the next months but look forward to participating if this is done again in the future, and to seeing all the results here! Maybe I'd spontaneously like to have a go at the digital file if that's alright, can it be simply made...

With a different effect though. The dark areas will bleed into the bright areas, rather than the other way around when used during taking.

Or do it for the reasons you use rise, or no rise.

There even are people who use paintbrushes that cannot even resolve 10 lp/mm. Crazy.

By my maths, it's about 14x. 24mm is nearly one inch, if this long dimension of the format is enlarged to the long dimension of 14"... it's 14x.

Maybe something from here https://lensbaby.com/collections/lenses or here https://shop.lomography.com/eu/lenses/petzval suits your taste? More usual soft focus lenses for 35 mm are 85 mm and up.

N74 hasn't been available for a while. Kentmere again? Or Foma? I'm quite interested in your results btw, and expect fomapan 400 will be the winner amog the affordable films. I like a really grainy look sometimes and would use a minox or 16mm camera, were it not for the lack of wide angle lenses...

You're waaaayyy overthinking this one, if you have a fitting screwdriver, nothing can go wrong. Many cameras have a little seal around the rewind button that can fall out, nothing else or more essential.

Wool knitting yarn works ok for me. Depending on the width of the grove, I either use the full yarn or split it into the three constituent yarns (or whatever the correct term is). I haven't been doing this for super long but expect that at some point, too many fibres will come off if it and it...

A 40 mm lens will give an image that is about 20 % larger in all dimensions than that from a 50 mm, if I remember my middle school maths correctly. So should be enough to fill the 16x20 paper.

I disagree with the reasons about integrity and such. (And how would the op "frame it as (he) wants in the first place" if the camera has a taller frame than the desired end result?) But I prefer the geometry of the unedited image over the crop. I would, in fact, be tempted to crop something off...

All fine and doesn't seem too heavy handed for my taste. I would not call this heavy editing, medium perhaps. I have no great arguments for why that should be so, but am generally ok with all modifications that can be done in the darkroom with reasonable effort, and have no ethical objections to...