It is because of the mixing mechanics and electronics together, I think.
DIY repairers have to learn not only the the mechanics and the electronics but the interaction between these parts, too.
Professional repair shops eschew the use of spare parts they had to remove from other cameras of the...
If these foam strips are stretched or positioned imprecisely, conductive areas will overlap.
If you have conductive silver, Andreas, place the contact foils directly on top of each other and first coat one of the sides that will later touch with conductive silver.
A fine work, Andreas!
And to the problems with the elastic connectors in the front flex connector: It may be of interest to know how they work and how to adjust them after first removal, but what the heck - your work around is good.
Hello Andreas!
That may be a reason, but the high price for repairing high-end cameras which were extremely expensive when buying new ones is accepted - only the price for repairing mass-produced, cheap cameras is often not accepted, as I see myself.
If you see such a cloudy spot through the eyepiece
and the cloudy spot is visible twice from the ground glass side
you have no real chance of removing it.
It is the decomposing foam strip that has attacked the black paint of the prism.
You would have to remove the prism, remove...
Yes, it does switch to 1/90 sometimes, when the FE is set to 1/2s.
What is the conclusion then - I think it is not practiable to dismount the FE completely to recognise that there is an itermittent fault within the electronics which I can't repair?
I checked for the two batteries and tried new ones also.
An intermittent connection between the battery compartment and the electronics I deliberated also.
But why is the exposure metering still active, showing 1/2s for example, when the mechanical 1/90s are working?
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