Recent content by Flighter

Thanks Eli, I never thought of shellac for this, I've used it before for gluing new ink sacs in fountain pens. I'll need to investigate the Kozo and Hanoi paper.

I went with the regular overnight cure version of Araldite as it gave a much longer working time to position the pieces, as I knew that heating would reduce the working time but I wanted to get it to a thinner consistency to penetrate the crack on the board ehilst having plenty of time to get...

Thanks Truzi. Yes, that's my plan B if gluing doesn’t work. As you say, there’s nothing printed, the paxolin just serves as a mount for the wiper contacts and a mechanical link to the mode switch on the top cover and the link on the underside which changes the meter display in the view finder...

Yes, it's a two part expoxy adhesive, probably similar to many others as Gary says. Farnell have a specification sheet (dated 2015) on their site here. I would say it’s probably standard hardware store issue. It's quite viscous when mixed, but thins up if heated.

As well as Alex Varas, this site https://tlr.rolleigraphy.eu/tlr66repairs.php lists two places in the Netherlands that work on Rolleiflex

Thanks, hopefully it will keep holding up, time will tell.

Let's see how this goes! Original cracked paxolin board reinforced with a layer of film on top. The pivot screw has a shoulder allowing the screw to be tightened whilst still allowing the paxolin board to rotate, there is also a spacing washer below to avoid squashing the metal contact fingers...

It should move up towards the top roller when the back door is closed. You can check this by moving the lever shown in the picture below (red arrow) in the direction of the arrow. There is a tab next to the roller on the back door which presses against the lever when the back door is closed...

Thanks Mike, great idea!

Thanks Dan and Gary, lots of thinking to do. Current thought is to glue (with something) a thin bit of plastic on the top of the part, with holes for the centre screw and the rivets and then trim to shape once dry.

Thanks Bob, I'll have a look at that post, my Dad was a great believer in Araldite. The stuff I know is quite viscous so might be difficult getting it into the crack.

Thanks Dan, there might be room for a very thin sheet, I suspect that there is very little clearance above the plate beyond the thickness of the rivets. Maitani-san didn't leave much free space in his creations. A further problem is the thin head of the securing screw has quite a large diameter...

Thanks koraks, although badly cracked the legs haven’t parted company yet, so hopefully the cyanoacrylate will wick into the cracks.

Hi all. I'm looking for recommendations to glue a crack in what looks like printed circuit board substrate. The part in question is a component of the Olympus OM2 mode switch and is badly cracked on the leg on one side with a crack beginning on the leg on the other side, as shown below. The...

The instructions for the Kaiser 4129 bulk loader, which appears to be the same as the AP/Arista one can be found here https://www.kaiser-fototechnik.de/en/produkte/artikel.php?nr=4129 The instructions are pretty brief though, and don't really say much more than remove the circular cover, feed...