Recent content by Ethan Brossard

Are you familiar with diffraction limits in optics / the rayleigh criterion? I don't know what lens you're using, but to achieve a actual resolution of 10,000 PPI you'll need your working aperture to be f/2.8 or greater, and as I know of no visible macro lenses which can achieve that I'm...

I’m guessing in SLA printers since each layer is a different shape no single frame gets displayed for a long enough duration for it to burn in. I made a gif which flashes between black and white that I set to full screen whenever I’m not exposing, and since creating that I’ve not had any issues...

That's odd, the 16k screen I'm using is 20hz. I've been reading more about these screens, and the 16k screen is more than capable of showing 8-bit images. It's the display driver board which limits it to 3-bit because 8-bit would require more processing power than the cheap driver boards have...

My screen is working fine now, so eventually yours should go back to working. When mine got burned in, I think I had it running for 12 hours or so unattended, and I think it took a couple days to get the effect to dissapear.

Is it the same screen running on the same hardware, and the same code, as the previous one you used before it broke? while trying to determine the correct driver settings (resolution, refresh rate, timing stuff) I saw things like that occasionally.

I've had very good success with both the 10.1" and 14" 16k displays [edit: though I would agree with you that the 8k displays are the best place to start... the 16k ones require a lot more finagling to get working]

RA4 should be doable- albeit a pain in the ass to calibrate. The monochrome displays have no color cast that I can see, so with three exposures for red green and blue light one could create a color print after linearizing each dye layer in the emulsion. [edit: though I have not tested it, I...

I began testing with the film in place, and did not notice any changes in print exposure after removing it. The main reason I removed it is that dust sticks to the film more than the screen itself (and the film is harder to clean)

I hold it by the edges and avoid touching the image area, but dust and whatnot is not too hard to clean off. Scratches will obviously show up in all your prints, but its fairly resistent to them.

looks great!

I am running the Pi 5 with the standard Raspberry Pi OS. There is one config file I had to modify to get the display to run on it, I believe it is /boot/firmware/cmdline.txt I can't remember the exact code I added to it, and the pi is in the darkroom at work currently, but I'll try to remember...

Very nice! the large amount of white areas make sense. The cyanotype process requires a relatively low contrast negative, and these LCDs are very fairly high contrast compared to a film negative.

I have not found any way to run these screens on mac or windows well. I'd suggest getting a cheap raspberry pi to run the screen using Linux (it's what they were designed for).

Very nice! When I enlarged with the 16k screen, I ran into an issue where the pixel circuitry was visible when things were in focus. If you run into the same issue, and find a way around it, I'd be very glad to her about it. At the moment I'm experimenting with varying degrees of softening...

Here's an image of the current setup. I'm using a wall mount DeVere 5108 as the chassis, and the LCD slots in like a regular negative carrier. The two cables which come from the carrier are an HDMI which connects to the raspberry pi microcomputer which controls it, and a USB cable which powers...