Recent content by Dave Krueger

I have a Hasselblad 40mm CF and use an AMOPOFO 86-95mm adapter ring from Amazon with 95mm B+W and Nikon filters. It's Aluminum, but I haven't had any problems with it.

Hi, Sal. I am sorry to say that I never pursued the comparison between the 1+3 dilutions of Xtol and and Perceptol. I can see from my records that I had purchased the Perceptol in May 2011 and mixed it up, but I don't have any record of developing any films in either developer at the 1+3...

For anyone who has taken the time to wade through it, this thread speaks for itself. I know that the problems are real and the solutions are real, but everyone gets to make up their own mind.

I agree completely. I've never had problems with vigorous agitation, but I have had uneven development and bubble spots when I tried more gentle agitation to reduce foaming. From what I can tell, foaming is never problem as long as you have enough solution below the foam to cover the film...

Film developing: Roll index number, date, brief description of subject matter, film type and size, EI, developer, dilution, temperature, agitation (30 or 60 sec intervals). I record all that on the negative page and in a spread sheet. (I do not record the film size on the negative page since...

I was referring to the old Kodak Polymax in the previous paragraph. Unfortunately, there is no Polymax anymore. :cry:

I always thought that the yellowing from age was due to materials not being acid free, not because of brighteners.

I've been using Cooltone RC Pearl for years. In fact, most of what I print is RC. It gets scanned for my website and then goes into boxes. Anything intended for display is FB (and usually larger).

I never tried the CT paper with CT developer before it disappeared. I wish I had. Or maybe I don't. If I had actually witnessed a good cold tone from it, I'd probably be just as depressed as everyone else who laments its demise. I do seem to remember that they were both available for a...

I've tried both the DIY formulas and Moersch SE6 with Finisher Blue and didn't get a noticeable enough difference to be worth the long development times and extra cost. In fact, if there was any difference at all, you could only notice it side by side with a Dektol developed print and even then...

Cooltone and MGIV are my preferred papers because of their cold/neutral tone characteristics. Developer, previously Dektol (1+1), is now D-72 (1+1). Aside from dilute selenium toning to increase DMax, I don't really do any other treatment. I avoid toning to the point of a noticeable color...

I vote yes. Unfortunately, I can't be more definitive than that because I've only been freezing paper for 5 years. Also, I don't intend to keep the paper frozen for 10 years. I keep at least a minimum 2-year supply in the freezer in case Ilford stops making the flavors and sizes I prefer...

I have looked for this groove on my film while the emulsion is still damp and haven't been able to see it, but I probably just didn't look hard enough or have the light in the right place. I have now seen both light and dark scratches on the same film (always at 19.5 mm +/- about 1 mm), when...

ic- racer: Thanks for the reply. I haven't been able to convince myself that the rollers are causing the 19mm scratch because the Teflon tape should have eliminated the scratch of that were the case. On the other hand, I have no other better explanation for how the scratch is getting there...

ic-racer and Pieter: After once again reviewing all the data, pictures, and forum comments, I am still stumped by the 19mm scratch. But, I do have some info that might be of value. Since I got the Hy6, I have shot five rolls of TMax 100 and none of those rolls have any scratches. I shot 4...