Recent content by Daniel Stuefer

They quote 175 micron for the sheets - so yes, normal thickness sheet film base.

Only fomapan 100, at 50, and ortho 400 at 200, both in D-23 replenished (usually), in 135, 120, 4x5 I don't like the near-IR films as much, the reds get too bright (unless I want to actually do IR)... I've actually just ordered a 50cc cyan filter, to see how close that pushes normal pan...

Ooh I didn't know that, I will, thanks =) I still also want to try the Chiba carbon though ^.^

I've been wanting to try this method (getting DAS isn't too easy and I definitely don't want dichromates), great to see an actual example =D

I do like to lith print, usually using fomatone, and have tried to lith my handmade emulsions, but no luck with those. I cannot confirm if the foma liquid emulsion would lith or not (fomabrom doesn't). There are also other commercial liquid emulsions - some from rollei, and Adox' polywarmtone...

Most Reliable: Sinar Norma - unless the bellows were to get punctured, nothing can really go wrong with the camera itself. Best Utility: Sinar Norma + Kodak Retina IIa - Norma can do literally anything, except quick snaps. But the retina fits in any pocket, and has a rangefinder...

A few years ago I had this sensitivity issue with some medium format rolls....with 200 I've also experienced various issues...Only pan 100 and ortho 400 have never given me any, and I tend to stick to those 😁

I've read about people saying they use film splicers, but that seems quite tedious...

Yes, I use a similar sort of doctor blade for coating paper and films. Works great IMO, just a bit expensive.... But, cry once, and then you'll be set, probably won't break, unlike glass puddle pushers xD

Always! =D

To satisfy my curiosity, I measured bellows extensions my 180/315 symmar: Normal: 15cm Front cell only: 25.5cm (+10.5cm) Rear cell only: 41.7cm (+26.7cm - way more than I had remembered/expected!) Field of view is exactly the same between front/rear cell (as it should be). As a saving grace...

Symmars are symmetric. It does not matter which element you unscrew.* It also works with every other lens of the same design, even if the convertible nature of it is not advertised. *edit: sharpness and rendering may differ a little between the two configurations, as the lenses would be...

I've only used shorter symmars, and never measured the actual distance, but I do know from experience that you need noticeably less bellows extension when using the front cell rather than the rear cell - simply because the optical centre will be a few cm further forward. So if you use the front...

Great work! Something that was also on my to-do list...now I don't have to =P I'll certainly look very closely at what's going on here when I've got the time, but based on a quick look I have already noticed some things: - usually, the silver is run into the halides, not the other way around...

Looking at transmission curves, K2 transmits ever so slightly more light on the short wavelength end than the Y2 (based on intersect with the X0 and X1 curves, assuming those are the same; Y2 seems has a higher cutoff wavelength, but only barely). Practically, though, you might say their cutoffs...