Kodak 2468 is a bright red.
Kodak Imagelink HQ has a purple-ish tone to it when viewed against light.
Lucky Aerial 1021 is green.
Tasma Type42 is dark green.
The point is that if it is a dedicated B&W film it should come out at least neutual-toned rather than this yellow-ish color. That's why I doubt it could be a color intermediate film like Kodak 2383. The developer formula was not designed to process color film in any way so it also contains lots...
Here is what it came out looking like
I also compared it with a real thin emulsion copy film (CMS20II) as I found the semi-transparent base quite interesting
Okay, here are some samples I get from "New" SHD100 developed in Rodinal 1+50 12mins
Lucky SHD100-Mamiya M645-Rodinal-2-5 by Kelvin Zhou, 於 Flickr
Lucky SHD100-Mamiya M645-Rodinal-2-3 by Kelvin Zhou, 於 Flickr
Lucky SHD100-Mamiya M645-Rodinal-2-12 by Kelvin Zhou, 於 Flickr
Lucky SHD100-Mamiya...
1021 is coated on acetate base with a bright green Anti-halation layer. Attached is a scrap section of 1021 expired in 2018. "New" Shd100, however, is coated on PET base with a more grey-ish Anti-halation layer and the emulsion seems to be thinner. There is rumor that this thing is T-grained as...
SHD400 is from their latest production run in 2023 and is fresh stock. You can tell that from the unique smell. After this production run they switched to coating a "new" Shd100. My guess is that if SHD400 sells well they will keep making it.
SHD400 seems to be derived from an aerial film which is usually shot at 100. Developing in Rodinal 1+50 for 9mins gives a nice negative. We have this film in China for quite some years (expired military stock) but Lucky released this film to the market only recently.
That said, this film lacks a...
As far as anti-halation goes, this film does have a dark-blue anti-halation layer on the bcak side. You will get some degree of halation if you are photographing point light sources. Otherwise you won't notice any.
At 1+9 there is still 10g/L sulfite which is nowhere near "Low" low and could effectively remove oxidized Metol.
I'm guessing that the hydroxide and some metal ions from your tap water formed some yellowish scum (maybe ferric hydroxide) and adhered to the film.
I have tried this formula, 30min at 20C and 18min at 27C gives a thin but detailed negative. I have tried CMS20 and Lucky KS132 microfilm with TDLC102 and it works quite nice
Here is the shots
Adox CMS20II-Nikon F100-TDLC102-1-29 by Kelvin Zhou, 於 Flickr
Lucky KS132-Nikon F80s-TDLC102-1-22 by...
Those two are the same emulsion, both based on Agfa Aviphot 80. Rollei Retro 80s is also repackaged from this film stock and comes in 120.
The fact is there is no 120 film on the current market which is designed to produce B&W slides. Maybe you can experiment with exposure and developing to get...
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