1. That developer is discontinued.
2. The high-contrast copy film for which it was designed is discontinued.
3. It will produce extremely flat results with "regular" films.
4. FX-39 II is probably better than any other developer with "regular" films.
In other words, there is nothing worth...
Lye is available in hardware stores.
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I don't see why you want super-fine-grain developers like Microdol-X. Today's films are so fine-grained that anything like that is unnecessary. I made 16 x 20 prints from Tri-X 50 years ago in which the grain is almost invisible. D-76 1:1 is all that you need. What kind of enlarger are you...
Agfa and Ansco for many years used a simple mail-in system for their chrome films, and I think Kodak could do it that way again, now that the consent decree of 1954 has been vacated. That decree did not apply to them, only to Kodak. It was an absurd decision to begin with.I believe that a...
Most large camera shops in the US had daily pick-up and delivery. If you got your film in before the pick-up, you usually got it back the next day. This was Columbus, Ohio. The lab was in Findlay. Ohio. Chicago had one, New Jersey had one, etc.
Rochester, New York: The global headquarters for...
No, 1987 was probably the peak. I remember! C41 films had improved, and were soon to become much more of a factor. All reversal materials slowed down after about 1994.
What do you mean, surpassed? Not at all! What do you mean, could not be improved? The green sensitizer used in K64 was replaced with a better one in about 1987. The new one was more stable. The red layer in K25 was revised in about 1976 because it gave too much red color, causing a loss of detail.
False. Kodachrome (or any non-substantive film) is inherently superior in several areas, most especially sharpness, because the emulsions are so much thinner than substantive films. Dynachrome 25 was, I believe, the effort of some Kodak ex-employees who decided to produce a non-substantive film...
I put a few drops of photo-flo in the last rinse water, hang up the wet film, then pour the water (with photo-flo in it) over the film from the top. Just put a tub under the hanging film to catch the dripping water. DON'T TOUCH IT!
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