Recent content by Augied

A Rollei 35 AF

-1 I sent my Mamiya 6 to Bob in 2019. When I got it back a year later, the problem was not fixed, and it had developed a new issue. I sent it back, and this time it took over 18 months (and constant badgering) to get it back, and it still didn't work. Bob may have been the best back in the...

The completionist in me has almost bought a Mamiya 645 several times to go along with my RB67, C330, and 6. Maybe one day, I'll be able to afford to get into 8x10.

Most Reliable: Mamiya RB-67. Also most reliably gets weird looks out in the world. Best Utility: Graflex Super Graphic. With a little effort, it can handle lenses from 75mm-400mm. Most Elegant: Zeiss Super Ikonta C. I love the rangefinder mechanism. Most Beautiful: Graflex Pacemaker...

I'm planning to do something about the low speeds on my Rolleiflex 2.8D. Going to dress it up in some brightly colored leatherette while I'm at it.

Here's something to consider. The Z7 sensor is 3:2, and the Hasselblad (or Fuji) is 4:3. When you scan a 6x6 negative you'll crop less, so the difference is greater than just the overall resolution of the sensor. On the other hand, you don't need to crop at all with the Z7 35mm combo.

As I recall, there is a set screw on the shaft of the rotating mirror, located inside the camera body, which locks both the vertical and rotary alignment. It's awkward to reach, and requires lots of trial and error to set correctly. Hopefully someone with a fresher memory can expand/correct...

55mm f/2.8 micro nikkor. (Not technically an "if.")

That very much depends on your definition of "quality." I have found that I produce better images on film, but that is more because of intent rather than quality of materials/equipment. I use digital for fast subjects that I'm just trying to get a look at. I use film when I want to take the time...

I started out planning to use rotary encoders, but I was going to need a lot of them to get the features I want. I may still consider some combination of both, rotary encoders for time entry would be much more elegant than the 1.0/0.1 buttons. Right now, I like the keypad because it puts all the...

I'm going to use an aluminum plate with fins. I haven't decided if I want to attach ready-made fins, or cut them out of the plate myself. A fan that cuts out during exposure is also a possibility if the passive cooling isn't good enough. I operate a CNC and 3d printers for my day job, so I have...

Thank you everyone for the answers and advice. I've been thinking about building an LED head since 2014, but this is the first time that I've felt like I can actually pull it off. Electronics aside, I'm working on what I think is a pretty neat idea for a split grade timer. I've set a goal to...

Interesting, I was under the impression that the only difference between the L and H series was the higher input voltage. This is getting very close to solving all of my problems.

I was looking at the datasheet from LEDSupply. On closer inpection, that one is rev. 5A, while the one you linked to is rev. 19. Either way, it looks like I'm on the right track now.

I thought it was 1000mA, but maybe that's an average not the maximum? I'm assuming that using LEDs with a higher rating than the controller is a good idea, but maybe matching the ratings is just fine/better. The green XP-E2 at 1000mA is 3.7V, so there shouldn't be any bottleneck with a 24V 100W...