Twin Peaks

Great image. That rickety fence in the foreground also adds a lot to the image. The darkest post is almost an exact replica of the gap in the barn door. So you get the three layers, fence, barn, mountain.

This is a great image: tonality, atmosphere and scenery. I'm glad you took your time for this one.
I really like the "blackness" of this image.

I've never had good luck with Acros in HC-110. Anyway, this is beautifully composed and I'm sure the print is stunning in person.

Bvy, which dilution? What sort of issues do you encounter? I've never had an issue with Acros in it. I use dilution H, 11 minutes in the soup. I'll admit though that I haven't tried a lot of different developers with Acros. Lately I've just stuck with HC-110 for everything, though I do like to do stand with Rodinal periodically.

Very nice print overall. I especially like the duality of the man made barn and natural mountain peak

@chuck94022 Thanks. I was using dilution E with all sorts of agitation techniques, and couldn't get rid of foam causing uneven development on the top edge (relative to the tank) of the film. It's well documented here. I switched to XTOL and constant agitation which works great, but miss the convenience of HC-110. Not to derail...

Strange... I've never had anything like that with HC-110. I thought you were going to say something about upswept curves, etc.

I'm sure you've fully discussed this in the forums. I'll look for the posts. I have immediate thoughts, but I bet they've already been expressed elsewhere.

@chuck94022 Shoot me a PM if you want to discuss. I'm actually fairly meticulous in my process, and was surprised that I could never overcome the problem.

Having now read the comments, indeed pretty much all my thoughts were covered in the thread.

However, the big difference is that I'm developing sheet film, and developing it dip and dunk. The tank is fairly deep, and I know there are no bubbles in the liquid before I go lights out.

My big issue with developing sheet film this way (fully lights out) is not air bells, but flow marks around the holder. So I'm very slow and gentle with my dipping and dunking. So far I love the process, though it does mean standing in total darkness through the whole process.

I've used everything else: A Jobo CPP2 and 3010 drum, which didn't give me sufficient control; an HP Combiplan, which does actually work but always made me nervous with its very slow pouring and draining; hand processing in a Jobo daylight tank with Jobo reels. I finally found nirvana in simple lights out dip and dunk, using either the HP Combiplan sheet holder, which is very nice for multiple sheets, to me better than the MOD 54; or using traditional individual metal dip and dunk holders in a classic, old set of Kodak ceramic tanks.

I do shoot and process 135 and 120 in a Patterson Supertank. I've never experienced your issue, regardless of the chemistry (HC, D76, TMAX, Rodinal, ID-11, XTOL, others). Good luck finding the solution!

Chuck you have received positive comments for your work and yet what bothers me is the darkness of your print. To my eyes you have overexposed the print and lost out on a more extensive range of tones that I believe your negative possesses. Of course this could be a fault with your scanner and this is just one persons opinion.