Very nice exposure. Did you use a meter or just wing it on your own? This makes me want to try the 180 and some Tri-X on my C33. Thank you for posting this.
I winged it. It's hand-held so I was really just going for the slowest shutter speed I thought I could hold at f4.5. It's quite dimly lit, darker than a house, so I reckoned somewhere around 1/30 to 1/60 should be about right. It is amazing how steadily you can hold a TLR because this is actually very sharp at a large size - tiny DoF, of course.
Tareq, they rebuilt the souq here, and put a nice roof over it instead of the torn canvas top it used to have but the alleys were restored pretty much like they've been for 100 years.
I winged it. It's hand-held so I was really just going for the slowest shutter speed I thought I could hold at f4.5. It's quite dimly lit, darker than a house, so I reckoned somewhere around 1/30 to 1/60 should be about right. It is amazing how steadily you can hold a TLR because this is actually very sharp at a large size - tiny DoF, of course.
Wow, great job. My wife bought me a C33 this spring and I've ruined a lot of film since then trying to learn about light, but am starting to figure it out. Seeing something like this is real encouraging.
Coming from 35mm, its amazing how much difference the mass and solidity of the beast makes in shooting.
The C33 is a wonderful camera. I just got mine this year, too, and I love it. I have the advantage of having shot film for 30 years before digital came in. With most film, exposure isn't too critical but if you are losing a lot of shots that way it is quite likely that your shutter is not running at the right speeds. I have four lenses and found that only one of the shutters is accurate. It is a pain trying to remember which needs what correction factors but it is better than constantly over or under-exposing. As a rough check you could meter with a digital camera, check the digital image is good and then take the same shot at the same setting on the TLR. If it's wronly exposed it is pretty certain that the shutter is wrong (my 105 has correct speeds for everything except 1/125 which runs at almost 1/250, my 80mm is exactly a stop out at all speeds etc etc.)
The C33 is a wonderful camera. I just got mine this year, too, and I love it. I have the advantage of having shot film for 30 years before digital came in. With most film, exposure isn't too critical but if you are losing a lot of shots that way it is quite likely that your shutter is not running at the right speeds. I have four lenses and found that only one of the shutters is accurate. It is a pain trying to remember which needs what correction factors but it is better than constantly over or under-exposing. As a rough check you could meter with a digital camera, check the digital image is good and then take the same shot at the same setting on the TLR. If it's wronly exposed it is pretty certain that the shutter is wrong (my 105 has correct speeds for everything except 1/125 which runs at almost 1/250, my 80mm is exactly a stop out at all speeds etc etc.)
Mine came with the standard 80, 105, 135 and 180 lenses. The first thing I did was take identical shots on a tripod with identical settings and sent the film to a pro lab specifying no adjustments. They were remarkably close, with the 105 being consistently slightly brighter - less then 1/2 stop.
Getting this camera corresponded with switching from 35mm Velvia to MF B&W, ditching the meter and learning to process my own film. No, my problems are pretty much all attributable to operator error - bad sunny 16 estimates, multi-exposures, forgot what ISO was loaded, used a yellow filter with color film, film came off the reel some time during processing and stuck to the canister wall.
Don't get me wrong, there have been enough good results to clearly show what an outstanding camera it is, probably better than I will ever be as a photographer. It will not limit the quality of my output. The best part about all those errors is that there is no thing and no other person to blame. They can be corrected only by paying closer attention, concentrating, and improving technique.
If you have had multiple exposures have you got the wheel on the right hand side turned to "sheet or multi-exposure" instead of "roll film"?
Forgetting what the film is has been a problem for me, too. I usually slide the top of the film pack into the flash holder now.
I'm planning to get back into developing again soon (once customs/the drug squad release the chemicals I imported) so I expect I'll be making some pretty awful mistakes, too.
Trying to work strictly from sunny 16 is tough. If in doubt I will use a meter - either another camera or a spot meter - if I have one to hand but, like I said, this shot was pretty much Hobson's choice.
There is a swivel button just in front of the wind-on crank which switches from multi-exposure to single shot, It's the same size and shape as the button on the rear door. On the subject of dials, the one on the left-hand side allows you to enter the ISO speed for the film, useful if you are meticulous enough always to set it when you change speeds (which I'm not).
I know it's on roll, not sheet, but I thought multi-exposure prevention was only on the C330. I'll have to check it out and see. As to the ISO dial, I also don't have the discipline to use it all the time nor to check it before shooting. What I do is to try to wind the crank before taking a shot. Whether it turns or not it will then be safe to shoot. But I also forget to do that sometimes.
It seems this thing just requires shooting enough to establish new routines and disciplined habits. So different from using 35mm for 30 years until they almost drove themselves..