My journey to Bromoil

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I’m on my way to Bromoil. The first leg is to master the technique using the liquid emulsion.
This is the first attempt. As you see, I have problems with bobbles in the emulsion and the picture has several injuries due to bad washing routine. Hope to improve and someday I will go further and hoping to end up in Bromoil..
Location
Hvaler, Norway
Equipment Used
Hasselblad 501
Film & Developer
HP5+ in HC-110
Paper & Developer
Foma, liquide emulsion
I'd say a good start. One has to be very gentle with Liquid Emulsion, as to vigorous pouring or spreading can cause bubbles, and they'll never come out. I assume you know not to ever shake the bottle, or you might as well throw it away.
I don't know if you can use hardening fixer with the Bromoil process or not, but Liquid Emulsion is quite soft and easily damaged. I always use hardener with mine, but don't do Bromoil.
Even with the flaws, you have a lovely photo.
 
As I've already told you, if you will youse your image for bromoil, never use hardener! But the bubbles are easy enough to avoid..
You might add a couple of drops of hot water in the emulsion for the first layer - then it covers easier (but thinner, so don't overdo it)...
let it dry, and then add a second layer as usual.

Just be gentle with your handeling of the paper in development - then it will be fine!

This is not so bad! especially since it is one of your first

.I'm sure you'll get there very soon!
(and keep in mind, that if you're going in bromoil, there's a lot of ways to cover your injuries...)
 
OMU
nono... ;-)

Am I assuming you're using FOMA emulsion? If so, it isn't mentioned in the Gelatine book! And it is different that the ones mentioned.
Two layers!

The image for bromoil should have blacks, but not "solid" blacks... If too long development and hereby really deep blacks, you'll find it really difficult (read impossible) to bleach it all out again...(and the oil paint isn't "happy" to adhere on silver)

If you - for bromoil purpose - overexpose a little - then under develop (have the image developed in two minutes ) then it is much easier to bleach, and the "solid blacks" can be obtained in the inking process...
 

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