I find my best matrices have a lot of gray tone in the original print. It takes some doing to get there in the darkroom (for me). Generally I have to print using split-contrast with lensed shots as the modern coated lenses produce higher contrast than the lenses of the day when Bromoil was king. Generally speaking my prints from original 4x5 film shot through my Zero Image pinhole camera are perfect for bromoil zeroing out all CMY settings on my color enlarger. I think the same could be said for some of my cameras of the 1920's to the 1950's, like for example the Voigtlander Avus with it's Skopar Anastigmat lens. That camera produces negatives that take minimal darkroom fiddling to make right for Bromoil. Anyway, I hope you enjoy this because the learning curve is kind of steep but once you get it, it's quite rewarding! Cheers!
Michael- There's a bit more detail than in the scan, but certainly not enough. I used an old print, which was printed for hand-coloring. Perry- Thanks for the tip. I have some Diana/Holga negs which may be a better place to start. I use the Heiland Splitgrade, so altering the contrast will not be a problem. Clive- Thanks, but I'm not satisfied with this. Looking at the ones you've posted, I see more delicate details. I just ordered the Watkins book, so I may wait until I read it before trying again. Then again, I've been having too much fun to want to wait...
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