Metal tape

Oops, damn, I scanned it and subsequently uploaded it upside down! Don't know how to fix that...sorry.

I don't think it matters which direction (to me). It looks AWESOME!

Keith, what is "reverse processing" of RC paper? Sounds interesting, but I have no clue... or do you mean you changed a high key exposure in this low key print, but than again, how do you do it?

Hi Marco- It's reverse processed similar to how you make black and white slides from regular black and white film. I put a sheet of regular 8x10 enlarging paper into the camera and make an exposure- sometimes as long as 16 minutes. If I processed this as I would normally I would produce a negative, right? Instead, I dev, bleach, re-expose, then dev again. This gives me a positive. Does that make sense? I can give you a url to a web site which describes the process in detail if you want to try it (I don't have it in front of me right now.) It is a lot of fun, though tedious, and the images are really different in tonality from images regularly processed. BTW, you can of course use fiber based paper rather than RC, it just takes a little longer. Thanks for your interest! Keith.

Thanks for the explanation Keith! Yes, I would be interested in that URL...

Just one last question, you did make a low key exposure, didn't you, to get to these results?

Hi Marco _

You can get details of the B&W negative reversal at:
http://members.iinet.net.au/~forbes/reversal.html

That page goes into depth with explanations of how the process works with film, which is basically the same as it is with paper.

Here's the process for paper (It uses RC paper for times):

1st developer 30-60 sec
rinse 30 sec
bleach R-9 30-60 sec
rinse 30 seconds
Clear CB-1 30 seconds
Rinse 30 sec
Expose to light (40 watt bulb for at least 5-10 sec at 12 inches)
2nd developer
fix as usual

R-9 is 9.5 g Potassium Dichromate + 66g Sodium Bisulfate into 1L

CB-1 is 90g Sodium Sulfite into 1L

You can probably use other bleaches, but I haven't tried anything other than the R-9.

You can use your regular paper developer like Dektol or LPD for the 1st and 2nd dev.

For exposure, I used a meter to get a time for ASA 8, then added five stops. Of course that's approx. With two 600 watt lamps my exposure ran 4 minutes at f16.

Feel free to PM me or email me at keitho@strucktower.com

Cheers,
Keith