Light and Model Experiments with TMY2
I've Awoken the Sleeping Spider Queen Dragon
Here's Lookin' at you Kid.
The Earth will take back it's Fuel
Light and Model Experiments with TMY2
Hay Ride Tractor Fun!
Solemn seems to be my Song
Figure of a Shopping Cart
StoneNYC

Light and Model Experiments with TMY2

Still playing with TMY2 to get it right... all the other images were terribly under exposed, I think I had just changed lenses and accidentally hadn't adjusted the aperture yet. I'm kind of getting sick of trying to make Tmax400 work, I've never had such a hard time with any film ever, it's so unpredictable and seems to never come out the same, even if the neg looks good the scan (yes I scan) comes out all wrong. I have two more rolls of it, we'll see...
Click to expand...
Location
Putnam, CT, USA
Equipment Used
Mamiya RZ67, 180mm, 120 back, Sekonc 7xxDR, 2 Profoto ProHeads, 7B Pack, Wafer Soft Boxes
Exposure
1/125 @ f/8 hand held (but possibly f/5.6)
Film & Developer
TMY2 @320 in Rodinal Pushed 1 stop to 11.5 minutes
Paper & Developer
Epson Scan, basic edge cropping only
Is this print for sale?
  1. Yes
jp498
Tmax requires more consistency in processing than other films. Same times, same temperature, same inversion timing/technique. I've found it to be very predictable in d76, xtol, and pyrocat-hd. never tried it in rodinal.
 
MaximusM3
It ain't Tri-X and as jp mentioned, you really need to get the process down and consistent to make it perform at will. Like any film, it can be molded to suit your vision. If the negs look good and the scans are wrong (whatever that means), well, then you need look there. As a general rule, for scanning, you want to under-develop a bit.
 
StoneNYC
Thanks guys, everyone is talking consistency, but I don't think I could be any more consistent than I already am, the only thing I've been changing is the dev time and exposire index. I've settled on EI 320 because any slower an what's the point I might as well just use Acros100 at EI200. I want to try PMK/PyroHD but I don't want to buy any NEW dev's I have too many as it is. Haha but I found it terrible in HC-110, and OK in Rodinal pushed, so I've been playing with that. I think I'll just use up my PanF+ and Acros100 on what I like and save the TMY2 for the pyro when I get some. I like the price of TMY2 but I'm going to try out some Delta400 :smile: ilfords never disappointed so I'm hopeful.
 
cliveh
StoneNYC said:
Thanks guys, everyone is talking consistency, but I don't think I could be any more consistent than I already am.
Click to expand...
Are you sure about that?
 
StoneNYC
cliveh said:
StoneNYC said:
Thanks guys, everyone is talking consistency, but I don't think I could be any more consistent than I already am.
Click to expand...
Are you sure about that?
Click to expand...
Yes, the temperature in my house is a constant 70 degrees (plus or minus 2 as any central air system would be, but it's new and efficient. I always measure the temp of the dev water to keep it at 70 before I begin. I use the massive dev chart app on my phone which means my timing for agitation is precise to the second. I'm fairly anal natured in general but ultra careful with TMY2. My water is filtered, and supposedly the best water on the country anyway (though best is relative for film processing but there aren't tons of deposits in the water even before it is filtered). So I can't figure out what else to consider. I HAVE changed my agitation technique to a much gentler rotation with fewer rotations per cycle which did help. I just think I DON'T like such a "straight curve" I think it's called, as a film, I don't want the image to be so even, I want contrast, I want to blow out the highlights sometimes purposefully when I choose to and not when I choose as well. And I want white skinned people to look white not black haha, that's the main issue, I'm always having to adjust the pre-scan because everyone is so dark, even if the scene is not underexposed.
 
MaximusM3
StoneNYC said:
cliveh said:
StoneNYC said:
Thanks guys, everyone is talking consistency, but I don't think I could be any more consistent than I already am.
Click to expand...
Are you sure about that?
Click to expand...
Yes, the temperature in my house is a constant 70 degrees (plus or minus 2 as any central air system would be, but it's new and efficient. I always measure the temp of the dev water to keep it at 70 before I begin. I use the massive dev chart app on my phone which means my timing for agitation is precise to the second. I'm fairly anal natured in general but ultra careful with TMY2. My water is filtered, and supposedly the best water on the country anyway (though best is relative for film processing but there aren't tons of deposits in the water even before it is filtered). So I can't figure out what else to consider. I HAVE changed my agitation technique to a much gentler rotation with fewer rotations per cycle which did help. I just think I DON'T like such a "straight curve" I think it's called, as a film, I don't want the image to be so even, I want contrast, I want to blow out the highlights sometimes purposefully when I choose to and not when I choose as well. And I want white skinned people to look white not black haha, that's the main issue, I'm always having to adjust the pre-scan because everyone is so dark, even if the scene is not underexposed.
Click to expand...
Make it easy on yourself then and just shoot Tri-X @ 200, and develop in HC 110 1:50 for six minutes. 5 quick inversions, then 2-3 every 30 sec. Look at Sanders McNew's portfolio.
 
StoneNYC
Eric Rose said:
Have you tried Ilford XP2? I love that stuff.
Click to expand...
No, I shoot Traditional B&W so I can save $, that would kind of defeat the purpose haha, thanks though, I hate C-41 and wish it would die, E-6 all the way baby! :smile:
 
Marc Akemann
Hey now...XP2 is pretty nice. : ) Hopefully not a stupid question as you seem to be careful with everything photographic but, just in case, is your TMY2 fresh and stored in a cool, dry place? T-Max seems more sensitive to aging than other films (to me).
 
tony lockerbie
Just re-trying TMax 400, but your result here looks really good to me, nice highlights, plenty of shadow detail etc. Can't see any problem with a scanned neg.
 

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tmy2at320-rodinal50-11min-3200003_490318.jpg
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Wed, 12 June 2013 5:05 PM
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