Lantern & Window

I like this composition, Victor. Very subtle toning which probably doesn't come across as well in the scan. Does your sequence involve bleaching prior to the brown toner? If you use direct toning in the brown toner first, the print will resist subsequent bleaching.

All the best,
Daniel

Hi Daniel, from toning experience and careful notes for several years now using normal tone FB (Ilford MGIV or Oriental VC FB) paper, my short toning times of prints (either dry or pre-soaked) in chems approx 73-83 F give these results: 1) Bleach - wash - brown toner 1:100 -wash - final selenium gives me more of a brassy,yellow brown... 2) Brown toner 1:100 - wash - bleach - wash - final selenium gives a truer brown and slight warming of blacks depending on the print. 3) Brown toner - wash - final selenium will not give as much brown without that bleach bath. 4) Selenium - wash - brown - wash - bleach - wash - final selenium holds better blacks ( sometimes blue-blacks) and warms the mid densities. 5) Selenium - wash - bleach - wash - brown - wash - final selenium holds the blacks but again getting that more brassy,yellow that I am less fond of. 6) Bleach - wash - final selenium, this combo can really vary, 15-25 secs of bleach then wash then selenium will give a slightly harsh, purpley-brown. 30 sec bleach - wash - final selenium (long 10 min) will give a very nice pink-ish, reddish hue. I have done all of these varying toning orders at varying times and found some strong consistencies over the years. I first started toning by bleaching til the image was both gone or nearly gone and re-developing then toning in brown and found that method to be of little difference then just bleaching for 5 to 15 seconds. That's the short answer, the long answer is that you'll have to come out, visit, shoot and do a toning session !