Testing exposures for cyanotypes in the afternoon sun. Starting with a coin, and following with pieces of card at 15 second intervals, to find max black (blue).
A couple of folks at a workshop I attended a week ago put a capful or so of 3% hydrogen peroxide in the cyanotype "developing" water and it substantially increased the d-max. The effect was quite dramatic.
My understanding is that the peroxide brings out the blue, so you have an idea what it will look like after dry down, but doesn't make a difference to the finished print. Double coating made a difference for me in the depth of the blue.I like this as a photogram suggesting pyramids - very cool.
Something like that, Bvy... I was going to try a mountain range, but couldn't wrap my brain around darkening the foreground and working towards a lighter background. Pgomena, I do use the hydrogen peroxide as a separate bath after clearing, but I suppose there is no reason I couldn't do it in the initial rinse instead. I've been using the Mike Ware New Cyanotype for years, and this is my first time using the traditional formula. In addition to being much slower, it also appears to have a lower contrast than the new formula, and the image has more of a tendency to wash out. Next time I coat some paper, I may add a few drops of 1% potassium dichromate solution to enhance contrast, but the MSDS on that compound doesn't sound too pleasant. Sly, I enjoyed the challenge of constructing a test sheet that was actually a comprehensible image.
I like it when a materials test is made as something pleasing to the eye! I have to admit I use commercial cyanotype material (Sunprint) when I feel like doing this.
this is great! i love to depth on the sides of the pyramids - -
i add a little peroxide to my first bath
and was told the image wouldn't get darker as it aged
as they sometimes do without peroxide ..
i don't usually leave them blue but bleach the color out and add my own.
john
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