Old Cabin (print)

I was just going to say that you got great contrast in this print. If the print is too hot, then there are ways of taking care of that, of course. But from here this looks amazing.

Agree with Thomas. I was struck by the contrast and how it brought out the textures. I think it is perfect. K

WOW WOW WOW!!!

Excellent!
Steve

Deep, dark and delicious!

Quite beautiful Andrew.

Cheers
Vincent

wow andrew, i didn't see this kind of print coming after seeing the neg scan. amazing!

This is cracking, really nice. I can never get the hang of this lightly bleaching and sepia toning. What do you use, how long for and how weakly is it diluted?

Thanks for taking the time to comment. Jarvman, I use Kodak Sepia II toning kits. Nothing out of the ordinary to be honest. I mix the bleach into a stock solution following normal kodak directions. Then I dilute that stock solution about 1:6 for FOMA paper, and 1:10 for EMAKS, Ilford etc. That takes the edge off of the bleaching step and also slows the process down a bit. Using the stock bleach as per Kodak's instructions is a little hot and cooks the paper considerably. I time the paper in the bleach as well. Usually I can get a good bleach effect in about 1.5 to 3 minutes. Again, Kodak's instruction for immersing the print for 10 minutes is a little harsh...... Unless you are going for an all out sepia look to your prints. 3 Minutes tops is all you should need, then again your mileage may vary, and tests need to be worked out for your paper and workflow. After the bleaching is done and a good rinsing of the paper is complete, then you can place the prints into the sepia toner. It's the smelly stink bomb smell of sulphide that is a little noxious. This takes no more than about 30 seconds for the image to turn color. With the light bleaching, the sepia typically impacts the highlights more than the mid/dark tones. Remember, the bleach can work fast if you are not watching it. I look for when I see a slight peachy/purplish tint to the highlights and you will see the whole image color change a little too. Sometimes cooler, sometimes a little warmer. Once the sepia effect you want is achieved, rinse well and then selenium tone as normal. Hypo clear and wash for an hour. If you need a more pronounced sepia effect, then leave the print longer in the bleach bath. Again, practice and famiarity will have to you on track in no time. It does not take too long to figure out the wrinkles.

Andy, you really have a nice color to your prints.
To everybody else - I've seen many of these prints in the flesh, and the stink bomb that the sulfide toner comprises is really well worth the effort to learn. The prints Andy churns out are very fine.