Liquid Light

hi eddie
what developer are you using ?
hot and strong might bring out some contrast ..
the only liquid light i have used lately has been OLD
and after it ages a while, it gets contrasty (contrasty-er? )
john

I've never used Liquid Light and wouldn't know how to raise contrast but I sure like this image, just as it is. It looks like it's made out of sand.

John- I used Dektol 1:1, in an attempt to bump the contrast. I'm afraid of damaging the emulsion if I use hot developer. Maybe a second coating? I've also read about adding a bit of developer to the LL, before coating, but haven't tried it. Rorye- Thanks. It does look like sand. I'm going to post a straight print, from the same negative, on Ilford WT fiber.

Eddie, I see what you mean but, having said that, the image does look great rendered with lower contrast. It's very delicate, more sensuous, and much like a soft painting/drawing. Of course you still want to master the material so you can control the outcome. I like this one though.

Max- I kind of like it, too. My plan is to use it for bromoil (another thing I've never done), so I think it needs a bit more contrast. Like you say, though, I'd like to have control over the process. While this one may work, it's not what I was after, and I need to get better control to get it where I want it to be...

Eddie - I just bought a bottle of Liquid Light that I am about to use myself, could stronger dektol raise contrast? What about betrozoline, say 30ml of a 2% solution added to dev, could that help too? I just pose these thoughts, never tried it myself, but I believe stronger dev can maybe bump up contrast as well as benzotriazole. Anyone confirm/deny theory?

This image is so flat compared to the straight print, I'm wondering if something might be up. Whenever I work with a new paper, or developer or formula, there's a little test I like to make to find the parameters. I've done this with Liquid Light. In this case I'd coat a small piece of paper. I use a hair dryer to get it good and dry. Then I take part of that piece and step out of the darkroom with it. In other words give it a good dose of light. Then I develop that and an *unexposed* piece for a good three minutes average room temp, in the equivalent of Dektol 1:1. The exposed piece should be good and black and of the unexposed piece should be white. BTW, I've had good luck with Rives BFK and Fabriano Artisico hot press. I used a Japanese hake for coating. Make sure you clean it well before turning on the light. I've had students use foam brushes and coat everything from canvas to wood and even stones and bones.

Thanks for all the input. When I have some time, I'll try some of these ideas.