I know I've posted this dang bottle too many times before. However, this time I am actually doing things a little bit differently. This was my first attempt at a clear glass ambrotype. I scanned it as a negative, and overlayed a tone that was sampled from my own toned prints. That way I have a proof of how I want it to print and look tone wise. I deliberately posted it into the technical gallery. If people object, I will remove it.
On a technical point, I am interested in the artefacts on the bottom right, Andrew. I got something similar last week on one of my ambrtypes. I assumed it was putting the plate too early in to the silver bath (while the collodion had not tacked up). Is that your understanding? I ask because I thought it was an interesting artefact to master, so to speak...it could make for some interesting images...
I have some Aluminium sitting around, but not got round to pouring any since the workshop...grown quite attached to the glass...
Kal, I think that might have been the reason. Interestingly, I never wait that long before placing the plate into the silver.... especially on warmer days. When I did this plate, it was around 68 degrees out so not that bad, and I waited for around 15 seconds or so as I held the plate flat and moved the plate up and down to shake the drip edge flat, once I see a skin on that area, I place the plate into the silver bath.
this was my first attempt at a clear glass ambrotype. I will say though that clear glass has a lot more tolerance to over exposure. I made another one, and doubled the exposure, there was little if any fog present. If I had done that on aluminum, it would have fogged badly. I kept my standard developer mix, and the usual 15 seconds. I think both negs will print, but the second (double exposed one) will print better on modern paper. Just curious what you do for exposure and development mix/time for your clear glass ambros??
If I have some more success with this, I may end up switching to an etherless collodion to avoid having to sub the edges.... Which I did not do with these and is evident with the tears at the edges. I hear that using alcohol (denatured, or 190 proof grain alc) makes a tougher collodion that does not require subbing. Subbing has always confused me as I thought the plate had to be scrupulously clean, yet here we are dabbing egg albumen and water over the edges with a Q tip. How are you supposed to dry the edges afterwards in the field without attracting dirt, dust etc. Seems like a step to be avoided!!
Thomas, printing is definitely in the plan eventually. This was my first ever clear glass ambrotype,and I over laid a tone that I sampled from my regular silver prints. I want to make them so they will print on modern paper, and maybe lith aswell I did one other neg after this and double exposed it. Came out great, nice and dense, with much potential for either contact or enlargement printing. The smaller size 4.5" x 4.5" neg will fit into my Beseler with a home made carrier and will give me many options for the final print. Or I can just contact print them small as well. Either way, I have many options now and the capability to do editions, or one off's... Also, glass is reusable... If I make a mistake, just peel off the collodion and I can do it over! I'm having so much fun with this.
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