ChrisGalway
Subscriber
Ask yourself exactly how a new camera is going to improve your photography.
I'd spend the money going somewhere photographically interesting.
+1
(I'm going to several photographically interesting places this year!)
Ask yourself exactly how a new camera is going to improve your photography.
I'd spend the money going somewhere photographically interesting.
+1
(I'm going to several photographically interesting places this year!)
Adams made plenty of mistakes and cared enough to turn them into tutorial moments.
Sure it’s a bit tricky, but isn’t bracketing a prove of one’s incompetence?
I remember traveling in the seventies with my OM-1 and 50 rolls of Ektachrome and coming back with almost 36 well exposed slides on each roll, just using the built in lightmeter.
A Leica MP wont give you better photographs than an M3.
We only see a fraction of the images that many great photographers made. I have book Ansel Adams Photographs from the National Parks Services Archive by Basil Cannon. AA had grants during the depression and later to photograph the national parks, he must have turned over some of his prints if not negatives to the Parks Service. What is the books is not his best work. But your right, he learned from his mistakes.

Everyone should read his commentary on the negative for "Moonlight" ... it was, uhm, not optimal![]()
Bracketing insures you get what you are after. Processing is the other variable that can cause problems. Especially 1st developer time, temperature, and activity.
Bracketing says I don't want a half a$@#ed image after going to the trouble and expense.
Adams made plenty of mistakes and cared enough to turn them into tutorial moments.
Exactly..... We shouldn't look down our noses at 35mm/120 roll film users bracketing....how many LF users take several exposures and then process one & save the other just in case? I know i do....
I agree. Exposure is not an exact science. The medium’s latitude dictates prudence by bracketing or not. And I’m glad others have mentioned the variance in processing.
I had never thought of that.
It's a kind of photographic vanity to avoid bracketing. I am well versed in zone system, have all the requisite meters, and a very repeatable film workflow. I still bracket. Why? Because the cost of film is trivial by comparison to the costs of getting somewhere, staying there, and shooting for great outcomes. I'd rather burn some extra frames (or sheets) knowing that I will have something when I get back from a multi-thousand dollar trip.
Exactly..... We shouldn't look down our noses at 35mm/120 roll film users bracketing....how many LF users take several exposures and then process one & save the other just in case? I know i do....
Bracketing makes more sense with roll film since all images will receive the same development regardless of how they were exposed. Having negatives with different densities could be really handy if the development led to some things you didn’t anticipate. Bracketing with slides doesn’t necessarily mean you messed up the exposure. Slides that are 1/2 a stop different often times have what could be considered “correct” exposure but look different. Maybe you like one more than the other. Or maybe you like both!
I appreciate that everyone has different expectations of their photos and for some bracketing ... getting the "perfect" combination of exposure and processing is very important.
But not everyone shares this view. Over the past 5-6 years, I've taken around 800 medium format 6x6cm stereo pairs of Provia 100f on about 20 or so 2-4 day photo-trips within Europe and I would estimate that over 90%, probably over 95%, of the photos are "well exposed" without any bracketing, just using a tiny AstrHori meter and common-sense/experience guided by the Sunny 16 rule. Each roll of 6 stereo-pairs is pushed/pulled individually on (home) processing. These slides are viewed in an optical viewer, so apart from adjusting the brightness of the illumination (for slightly darker sides), I have no other control over the final result.
Things like subject matter and stereo composition are far more important to me than perfecting the exposure. The one thing I do try to avoid is over-exposure, as washed-out highlights are unrecoverable, but slightly darker shadows can be compensated to a certain extent by increasing the brightness of the viewer illumination.
Of course I'd like every photo to be "perfectly" exposed/processed ... who wouldn't? ... but there are other aspects to consider.
I exposed a roll of slide film recently and, judging by the results, my instincts are sufficient. I still value a meter although I do not depend on one anymore. Hot shoe meters are always a compromise in my experience.
So, do you think I am a fool for not selling an arm, a leg, a kidney, and possibly a my first-born to get a Leica MP if I enjoy using the Leica M3 despite some of the frustrating quirks of a rangefinder (I do have a few gripes)? I feel that the relative age and a few design features of the MP could make it worth spending a little more for one used over the M6.
The M7 requires batteries for most of its shutter speeds and the automatic function would be a dangerous siren song for me. I have removed it from consideration.
I suspect that I would not lose much money if I sold a MP in acceptable user condition. That is related to why I made this post here (link).
You guys really pushed this thread off the rails. Lol.
OP- the MP won't make a difference. Better to use the moolah learning about photography. Take a workshop with someone you admire. Then your pictures will be better. In fact using a Leica won't make your pictures any better than using a multitude of other cameras. Don't fall for the b.s.

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