Yashica FX-3 2000 needs to go back to Super

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gryngowho

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Hello to everyone, I'm new in the forum.

My name is Enrico, I'm 26 years old and I'm from Italy :smile:

I was looking for a film camera to learn shooting and, rummaging at home, I've found this Yashica FX-3 Super 2000 with a ML 50mm 1.9 lens mounted.
I really like the look, the feel and it also have a sentimental value, so I'd like to make it my camera.


But there's one problem: when I shoot (in any aperture value) the aperture itself gets stuck. And it gets stuck only when I set the focus 1.4m/1.5m and above (for the distance of the object). To unblock it I need to move the focus ring back below that value.

I tried removing the lens and just shooting away with just the body (to see if the shutter mechanism) and it works perfectly every time.

Does anyone ever experienced this kind of problem with this camera or a different one?

Thank you for your time Dead Link Removed
Enrico
 

shutterfinger

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On the back of the lens are 2 levers. With the aperture set to f1.9 operate the lever that moves the aperture blades while looking through it. The aperture should stop down and return to f1.9 at the same speed as you release the lever. If its sluggish and does not stop down/return smoothly/quickly then the mechanism needs cleaning and lubing. The aperture operating mechanism is not complicated and is usually accessed by removing the mount. The mount is the silver ring attached with 4 or 5 screws. They may have thread locker on the threads that dissolves with nail polish remover. Apply the nail polish remover around the screw head and allow to sit for 10 to 15 minutes before attempting to remove the screws. The screws are likely JIS and a standard philips screwdriver may slip. Clean with 90% alcohol and use white lithium grease where the dried grease was removed. A little grease is better than a lot. If the aperture blades have oil on them remove the lens element/groups and clean the blades with alcohol.
Pay attention to the orientation of the mount, count the number of turns when removing retaining rings, and pay close attention to lens element orientation.
https://www.google.com/search?q=yas...ECAQQAQ&biw=1920&bih=966#imgrc=vw5OJxnSbGqFkM:
 
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gryngowho

gryngowho

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On the back of the lens are 2 levers. With the aperture set to f1.9 operate the lever that moves the aperture blades while looking through it. The aperture should stop down and return to f1.9 at the same speed as you release the lever. If its sluggish and does not stop down/return smoothly/quickly then the mechanism needs cleaning and lubing. The aperture operating mechanism is not complicated and is usually accessed by removing the mount. The mount is the silver ring attached with 4 or 5 screws. They may have thread locker on the threads that dissolves with nail polish remover. Apply the nail polish remover around the screw head and allow to sit for 10 to 15 minutes before attempting to remove the screws. The screws are likely JIS and a standard philips screwdriver may slip. Clean with 90% alcohol and use white lithium grease where the dried grease was removed. A little grease is better than a lot. If the aperture blades have oil on them remove the lens element/groups and clean the blades with alcohol.
Pay attention to the orientation of the mount, count the number of turns when removing retaining rings, and pay close attention to lens element orientation.
https://www.google.com/search?q=yas...ECAQQAQ&biw=1920&bih=966#imgrc=vw5OJxnSbGqFkM:
First of all thank you very much for helping out.

I tested the lens according to your instructions. First detached it from the body, then set the aperture to 1.9 then I played with the lever checking that the time that it takes for the blades to go back in place is the same it takes for them to move out the way. And that was the result, quickly they come, quickly they go.

Should I still disassemble the aperture operating mechanism?

Thank you again for your help :smile:
 

shutterfinger

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Check it again at the focused distance you experience difficulty with it mounted on the camera.
Check the levers in the camera body to see if they are dragging on the lens at the problem focus distance.
Do not disassemble unless its obvious there is a problem in the lens.
 
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gryngowho

gryngowho

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Check it again at the focused distance you experience difficulty with it mounted on the camera.
Check the levers in the camera body to see if they are dragging on the lens at the problem focus distance.
Do not disassemble unless its obvious there is a problem in the lens.
Today I'll check the body. Yesterday I ran all the tests again after playing with the aperture lever and checking the times of pull back of the aperture, but same results. Above 1.3-1.4m it just doesn't go back to normal.

I will try to find a second hand lens or in a shop so I can mount it on and see if something changes.

Thank you for your help :smile:
 
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gryngowho

gryngowho

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If you find that the lens needs service, I'd recommend picking up the ML 50mm f2. There are many of them out there, and they are inexpensive. Good luck sorting it out.
Definitely Jeff! I will go to camera shops and thrift stores to see if I can find any. At least to try it out to see if the problem is the lens itself or the body.
 

shutterfinger

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Today I'll check the body. Yesterday I ran all the tests again after playing with the aperture lever and checking the times of pull back of the aperture, but same results. Above 1.3-1.4m it just doesn't go back to normal.
Not clear here, with the lens off the body and focused to 1.4M does the aperture operate correctly? Yes - body at fault, any lens likely to fail mounted on it. No - lens at fault. remove the lens mount and see what is out of order.
Lever end under the mount can be bent by incorrect handling of the lens off the camera. The operating levers inside the body can be bent from incorrectly attaching a lens. Should be an easy fix.
 

AgX

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Without knowing that mount/lens I guess the automatic diaphragm lever is bent (from a fall?) in a way that it got a bulge inside the lens barrel, so that it touches some lens assembly when that is extracted. (Though such contact seems more likely when the lens is near infinity...)
So far I have not experienced such fault, but this is the best I can make out of your description.
 
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gryngowho

gryngowho

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Not clear here, with the lens off the body and focused to 1.4M does the aperture operate correctly? Yes - body at fault, any lens likely to fail mounted on it. No - lens at fault. remove the lens mount and see what is out of order.
Lever end under the mount can be bent by incorrect handling of the lens off the camera. The operating levers inside the body can be bent from incorrectly attaching a lens. Should be an easy fix.
I was trying to make a 30 sec video to show you but I discovered even more bizarre things. I'll just approach it as an engineering or physics experiment: data.

A=Aperture F=Value of the focus ring below which still works as expected and over which doesn't work

A=1.9 F=1.3/1.4m
A=2.8 - To free the blades I have to bring back A to 1.9 and then move the focus ring
A=4 F=1.3/1.4m
A=5.6 - To free the blades I have to randomly move the focus ring AND the aperture one
A=8 F=1.3/1.4m
A=11 F=1.5m
A=16 F=1.5m

Now, I don't know if it's a bizarre behavior because I don't have any experience whatsoever, but it looks pretty crazy to me :blink:

Hope you guys can make any sense of it (Thank you AgX for your contribution :smile: )
 

shutterfinger

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I ASSUME the above test is off camera.
Observe the front of the lens as you move it from infinity to its closest focused distance. The front of the lens likely moves forward from the main barrel that the focus and aperture rings are mounted on. 1. Is the focus smooth throughout its entire range (no bumps, snags)? 2. Is the inner barrel to outer barrel distance consistent around the lens at the focus distances the aperture fails at?
3. Do you have a camera that you can use to make images of this lens with?
If the answers to questions 1 and 2 are yes and the answer to 3 is yes then remove the lens mount ring, set the focus to the distance where the aperture fails and take a picture of the rear of the lens showing the levers clearly and post it here.
 

shutterfinger

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Example of what you will find when the lens mount is removed.
A. aperture return spring.
B. operating lever.
C. connecting link to aperture
DSC_3081.jpg lens aperture.jpg
Your lens has 2 levers, I do not know what the second lever does. Pictures like these will help diagnose the problem with yours. Aperture on a Konika 135mm f3.5. Photos taken with a D300, 60mmf2.8 Macro at f22, ring flash.
 
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gryngowho

gryngowho

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I ASSUME the above test is off camera.
Observe the front of the lens as you move it from infinity to its closest focused distance. The front of the lens likely moves forward from the main barrel that the focus and aperture rings are mounted on. 1. Is the focus smooth throughout its entire range (no bumps, snags)? 2. Is the inner barrel to outer barrel distance consistent around the lens at the focus distances the aperture fails at?
3. Do you have a camera that you can use to make images of this lens with?
If the answers to questions 1 and 2 are yes and the answer to 3 is yes then remove the lens mount ring, set the focus to the distance where the aperture fails and take a picture of the rear of the lens showing the levers clearly and post it here.
I won't get my hands on a screwdriver with which I can dismount the lens mount ring until this evening. I'll write as soon as I get it and I'll take the pictures to be posted here :smile:
 
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gryngowho

gryngowho

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Example of what you will find when the lens mount is removed.
A. aperture return spring.
B. operating lever.
C. connecting link to aperture
View attachment 205607 View attachment 205608
Your lens has 2 levers, I do not know what the second lever does. Pictures like these will help diagnose the problem with yours. Aperture on a Konika 135mm f3.5. Photos taken with a D300, 60mmf2.8 Macro at f22, ring flash.

IMG_1773.JPG
IMG_1774.JPG
IMG_1775.JPG
IMG_1776.JPG


I hope you can see what you're looking for in the pictures. I mounted the lens mount ring back on the lens but now the aperture ring is loose. But it's ok, probably this lens isn't gonna work anyway so at least I'm doing some experience with lenses :smile:
f7Y9Lp
cL7rY9
czHrY9
h2qdD9
 

shutterfinger

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Up in the 11:30 o'clock position is a hole with a spring in it. There should be a steel ball or domed top steel pin the sits on top of the spring. This is the click stop for the aperture, it needs to be there.
The aperture spring may be dragging on the lens barrel. Lightly coat the inner edge of the spring with light weight grease, no oil. The aperture detent spring and ball should have a trace of grease also.
Verify that both levers operate smoothly with the mount ring removed, nothing should fall out, with the focus ring set to any position. Lube moving parts sparingly with light weight grease as needed to achieve smooth operation or reform levers as needed to just obtain clearance.
The lever at the 12 o'clock position may be bent outward about 1° but its hard to tell for sure.
 
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gryngowho

gryngowho

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Hello again SF and anyone who took part on this quest so far :smile:

I ended up leaving the lens in the shop. It's beyond my abilities to fix it, but at least now I know the problem was in the lens. In fact I swapped the lens with a brand new one from the shop itself and everything worked just fine at any aperture value and focus.

I'll have to buy a used one off of eBay (if I won't find any in some charity shop around the city) for 30-40€.
Not a big deal but I thought it was worth to try and fix it myself (with your essential help).

I'd like to thank everyone who took part in this conversation for the huge help you gave me in exploring the issue with me :smile:

The whole process of opening the lens and see what's going on it's well beyond my knowledge and ability, but, again, thank you :smile:

I hope it's been helpful for someone else too. If I happen to be back in the shop again I'll update the post with the news.
Enrico
 
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