Just a followup -- the last two nights I've been up far too late doing exactly this, split printing with Lee 100 Spring Yellow and 119 Dark Blue (I wanted 795 Magical Magenta, but couldn't get it locally). I chose the yellow as having the same cutoff as the Dark Green APUG member Lee recommends, but with the red left in, originally thinking I'd have more light to focus without removing the filter -- but it turns out there's a separate benefit of having yellow and blue filters; the yellow looks transparent under safelight, while the blue is quite dark; makes them easier to tell apart than I remember the Kodak filters being 20-some years ago.
And the results are incredible -- they're not kidding, if you have any inkling of a starting point for exposure (which you'll have, after you've used your equipment a bit) you can make a perfect straight print with just two test strips, one in yellow (or green), the other in blue over the best yellow exposure. I used to make five or six prints just trying to find the right contrast, and then have to make another test strip to get the right exposure, and then sometimes still have to adjust contrast (and exposure) again. I spent most of a year learning to scan my negatives, and one evening getting prints that looked as good as my best scans -- and better than the best prints I made in high school or college.
And I'm doing this with a cold light, which some people consider hard to control in contrast. I'm completely sold; even if, at some point, I reconvert my enlarger back to condenser, I'll stick with split filter printing for as long as I can buy multigrade paper.
The only down side I can see at this point is I have trouble with my easel moving when I change the filters, but that's a problem with too much easel and not enough baseboard, not anything directly related to the filters or the split filter technique...