What is your favorite film developer?

[H. G. Hart]

I have been using D-76 1:1 for quite some time now, only experimenting with other developers occasionally. What is your favorite developer and why?

 

[Jorge Oliveira]

I voted other, since most of my devs are homemade.

- Xtol equivalent/clone for PX - grain, sharpness;
- Diafine equivalent/clone for TX @1200 - speed without blowing highlights.

And, for emergencies, I keep HC-110, that I usually use at dil B/2.

Jorge O

 

[Thomassauerwein]

I'm A Xtol user, I've been using it so long I can't even tell why any more except when I tested 12 or 15 years ago it was the one that worked best with the film and lighting. I can say that when I was testing I was looking for a way to expand the value range of my film yet maintain creamy whites,detail in the blacks yet good solid blacks so so Xtol came out the winner. It also has some nice versitility with dillutions,temp and processing times allowing that range I'm looking for. The only drawback I've seen is it is tempermental and has no patience for replinishing. so every 18 rolls of 120 I have to make a new batch.

 

[Konical]

I use more T-Max Developer than any other, probably because I use more T-Max film than any other. I use the standard stuff for all sizes, including sheet film. Actually I simply didn't notice the "For Roll Films Only" notice on the bottle years ago; since I was having excellent results, I never saw a reason to buy the RS version just for 4 x 5. (Anyone know why Kodak puts the warning on the bottle?)
I always have some HC-110 available, especially for copy films and as something which will work with almost any film. Technidol Liquid comes in handy occasionally for high-contrast situations.

Konical

 

[photomc]

I have been using Rodinal more recently, but also use ID-11 and HC-110. Really depends on the film used, results and if it is time to experiment or not.

 

[lee]

I am using PMK for the very reason that I have about 2 lifetimes of part A. As soon as that is gone I will probably go to Pyrocat-HD. Til then, PMK is the soup of choice because I am so cheap.

lee\c

 

[David A. Goldfarb]

Depends on the film, format, and intended use.

I rarely shoot B&W in 35mm anymore, but if I did, I'd probably be shooting mostly TMX in D-76 1+1 and Delta 400 in Perceptol.

Mostly I shoot Tri-X in various forms and use PMK for negs that will be enlarged (4x5 and medium format) and ABC for negs that will be contact printed (8x10" and 11x14"). For extra speed, I like Acufine.

 

[Doug Bennett]

Rodinal for Efke 25 and APX100, sometimes for Tri-X. X-Tol for Delta 3200. Used to use ID-11 for Tri-X or HP5, but lately have been playing with WD2D+. Fantastic detail w/WD2D+, never any blown hightlights. The negs are a little low in contrast; I find myself printing at 4 quite a bit, but it's not a problem and the prints are nice.

 

[Ed Sukach]

For Black and white, lately, I've been using Rodinal. I have some *really* good results from Alta's Gamma Plus.

For C-41 Color negative, Tetenal CN2 Pro Pack. I have Tetenal's C41 "Press" (dry chemicals), I'm about to try next.

 

[Ed Sukach]

Oops. I just realized I posted color information in a "B&W" Forum. My apologies.

 

[Shesh]

I voted other since I use patterson FX-39.

 

[Flotsam]

Sorry Ed, that's just unforgivable ( I do my c-41 in Walgreen's, Dev. only)

For B&W, I like Edwal FG7 diluted in 9% Sodium Sulfite for smooth grain with fast films and plain water for slow films.

 

[Aggie]

..

 

[removed account4]

ansco 130

 

[Jim Chinn]

I guess if I were to list the ones I use the most it would be XTOL for all film formats and HC110 for some LF applications. I have pretty much standardized on using Delta 100 and Trix for 35mm and the XTOL produces great tonal range, and as Thomas pointed out, it has great flexibility with dillutions. Of course there is the occasional TriX or HP5 in Rodinal and I am moving more towards PMK for sheet films.

 

[Ole]

I use Pyrocat-HD a lot, but voted for "other". I use the Pyrocat-HD mostly for 5x7" and some 4x5", and Beutler's for smaller sizes which won't be contact printed. Unless the contrast range is extreme, in which case I'll use Maxim Muir's compensating Pyrocatechin - or divided D23.

 

[doughowk]

Trying to simplify my life - I use Diafine for all sizes/types of film, with an occasioal experiment (eg, pyro-HD).

 

[brimc76]

I use HC110 mostly and sometimes Rodinal. I shoot mostly Agfa APX in 120 and Ilford HP5+/FP4+ in 4x5. I would really like to try PMK/Pyro but I hear it's very bad for septic systems.

 

[Doug Bennett]

Ansco 130? For film?

 

[Ed Sukach]

Sorry Ed, that's just unforgivable ( I do my c-41 in Walgreen's, Dev. only)
For B&W, I like Edwal FG7 diluted in 9% Sodium Sulfite for smooth grain with fast films and plain water for slow films.

You have *NO* idea how ashamed I am. For penance, I went to my darkroom and deliberately lightstuck two sheets of 16" x 20" Ilford MG Portfolio.
That's my story and I'm sticking to it!!! :roll:

No kidding!! - You develop slow black and white film in plain water? I thought I was being cheap!! What times are you using?

 

[Flotsam]

No kidding!! - You develop slow black and white film in plain water? I thought I was being cheap!! What times are you using?

Gee, do you think that explains why my slow films are _really, really_ slow?
It's easy to mix anyway

 

[fhovie]

PMK for 4x5 (will try Pyrocat soon) For Accutance and tonality
DiXactol for MF - (will try Pyrocat soon) For Accutance and tonality with finer grain
Microdol X for 35mm - Because I might blow it up past 8x10

Some special films require D76 - like infrared and high speed films - Others - Tech Pan require TD3 and I often use Split D23 for rolls shot with uncertainty (old cameras with dubious exposures)

 

[Black Dog]

I'm a Pyromaniac myself.

 

[removed account4]

hi montysano -

yup ansco 130 for film - it used to be marketed as a universal developer. film 1:5 - 68º - 6 1/2 mins - agitate. i tend to use it 1:5 ( or if it is older 1:4) @ 72º .. and i "inspect" it at about 7 mins. if you like how your prints look with it, film looks nice - wide tonal range, fine &c ..

try it sometime, i did, and haven't used anything since

-john

 

[veriwide]

I am an Ilford Perceptol loyalist. In my experience it produces etchings rather than negatives. I have never seen grain with it, just sharp line detail. I use it on any b/w film I shoot from 400 speed and slower.

My favorite camera/film/develpoer combo is my Plaubel Veriwide (older model with 6x10 format) / Ilford Delta 400 Pro / Perceptol. I can make 24 inch wide prints from 120 film with no apparent grain. It is an awsome developer that I caution other people away from, so there will be more for me.