Using chemicals over 2 nights

[Carol]

Is it possible to use the same trays of chemicals over 2 nights if they are not depleted or will they lose strength over such a long period sitting there? Thank you.

 

[titrisol]

YES it is possibel
the main problem will be your developer, that may become inactive due to oxidation, but over 24 hours or so that shouldn;t be a problem

Is it possible to use the same trays of chemicals over 2 nights if they are not depleted or will they lose strength over such a long period sitting there? Thank you.

 

[Nick Zentena]

Alot depends on which developer and how you store it. Pour it back into a glass bottle and it'll keep better. Some developers will keep better then others.

 

[Carol]

Thanks Titrisol. Would it help if I covered the trays with Glad Wrap (cling wrap)? I'm not sure what you call it where you are.

 

[Claire Senft]

Conservation

Chemicals are expensive. Developers oxidize rather easily. If you want to use your developer the following day, float a layer of Saran Wrap on the serface to stop oxygen from reaching it.

 

[Carol]

Sorry I probably should have said I use Kodak Polymax. Thanks.

 

[Gerald Koch]

Cover the trays with something like Saran Wrap. This will slow the oxidation of the developer and water loss from the fixer. Still its better to put the developer into a bottle.

 

[Carol]

Is Saran wrap clear plastic lunch wrap Claire?

 

[mikeb_z5]

It depends on what you are using them for and what chemicals. I assume you mean for paper.

For paper I routinely reuse Dektol 1:2 over 2 sessions if I haven't exhuasted it. I store it in containers and use within 3-5 days. Never had a problem. Stop and fixer can go a long way.

For film I use all chemicals one shot.

Mike

 

[Bob F.]

Yup, I've used cling film (is this stuff called the same in any two countries in the world: cling film; cling wrap; saran wrap...) to cover the developer, stop and fix overnight (not sure if the stop & fix actually needed it).

Obviously some developers are move prone to oxidisation than others but Ilford MC developer and Agfa Neutol WA both worked fine 24 hours later. I recently started using a Nova so the chemicals all stay in there - Neutol WA has been in there for nearly 3 weeks now with full activity (as of last night - touch wood...).

Bob.

 

[Neal]

I would like to second the plastic wrap suggestion. Also, rather than pulling it tightly over the top, I let it float on the chemicals with enough left over to seal up and around the trays. In my mind this helps reduce the amount of oxygen exposure. I have no idea if it is actually better.

Neal Wydra

 

[titrisol]

Cling wrap is good, saran is best. SARAN is a different type of polymer, that keeps O away better
Over a 24 hour period I wouldn;t worry that much, I generally put the dev/fixer back in the bottle and use the stop one shot (but i did one or 2 session a weeks tops)

Thanks Titrisol. Would it help if I covered the trays with Glad Wrap (cling wrap)? I'm not sure what you call it where you are.

 

[Carol]

Thanks very much for the help. I will cover all 3 trays and give it a go.

 

[Bruce Osgood]

Carol

Developers begin failing once they are in a tray and in contact with air. When you complete a session of printing that developer can be reused tomorrow if it has been stored in an air-tight container. I have had minimum success wrapping a tray with plastic wrap like Saran, but with all the fumbling with the wrap I find it easier to return the developer to an accordion bottle and it keeps about as long as expected.

Stop bath, fixer and wash aid (Hypo Clearing Agent) do not deteriorate like developers but while the prints are washing and I've decanted the developer I look at the Stop Bath, Fixer & Hypo and say, "Aw hell, might as well put them back too". Their bigger problem than failing is airborne dust settling in them.

 

[Carol]

Thanks Bruce. I know I'm taking a shortcut and will prob. pay for it. I'm just trying to avoid having to tip the chemicals out once as my d/room is a carpetted spare bedroom and I worry about spills. Hubby is off at the car races so I figure I can stink the house up with chems. and fill the laundry with prints while he's away.

 

[Konical]

Good Afternoon,

I usually follow the approach described above by Neal. I just save the plastic wrap from the dry cleaning I have done; it works fine and is big enough to cover 16 x 20 trays easily. I don't know how long the same developer will last with plastic floating on it, but I usually don't go beyond a second day.

Konical

 

[Craig]

I always put my paper developer (Ilford multigrade) back in a bottle after use, and I've used a mixed solution after it has sat for months and it worked fine. I keep 1 litre bottles for each solution - usually empty Ilford concentrate bottles, and keep my working solutions in those.

I do keep track of the amount of paper going through the solution and stick to Ilfords recommendations, but I've never had a problem extending their storage life recommendations.

 

[Daniel Lawton]

If I am taking a break from printing for more than 12 hours or so I take it a step further and put it in the fridge after I pour it into airtight containers (assuming its not exhausted of course). I have a specific fridge for this that I don't let get too cold where the solids might precipitate out of the solution. I let it acclimate in room temp for a couple of hours before reuse. Probably overkill but it gives me piece of mind.

 

[Claire Senft]

Yes

Saran Wrap is a clear sandwhich warp. I would o,agone other grands would work well also.

 

[Woolliscroft]

Fix and stop can last for ages, but I put them in compressible plastic bottles overnight to stop the water evaporating. Dev will last overnight in a compressible bottle with the air squeezed out. Don't risk it with film dev though. If your print dev turns out to be bad you can mix some more; with film dev you've lost the film.

David.

 

[Thomas Wagner]

When we had a gap between classes we used to also use saran wrap. But, we put it into the trays loose enough to float on the surface. Then just tucked the sides. Never had any oxidation problems for a couple of days neglect.

Tom

 

[Carol]

I just wanted to say thanks for all the advice. I ended up tipping the developer into a 2 litre containter for the day and reusing all the chemicals the next night. Seemed to work fine, saved some money and gave me the chance to get some extra practice in. I learned I need to take better photo's in the first place.

PS. I figure I know when the developer or stop bath isn't working anymore, but is there any way to tell when the fixer is used up?

 

[argus]

I already have used Ilford Multigrade in working solution after 5 days. Poured back in the bottle after the first session, that is.
You'll notice when it's exhausted. Just don't use your best paper for the first print of a session.

To test the fixer: (in case you use the same dillution for film & paper fixer, e.g. Agefix 1+7) put in a piece of undeveloped film in it. If the film doesn't clear in 1 1/2 time of normal fixing time for that type of film, replace the fixer.
(I guess you have plenty of film leftovers from film)

G