ULF format suggestions sought

Sometimes, too many possibilities are a curse...

awww... what the heck, build a 5x12!

 

5x16 sounds like a really nice if offbeat format. If you have the wherewithal to build one, I'd go for that format. Certainly it would be unique, and you'd be able to get 4000 exposures out of your existing film stock before you'd have to buy anything else. That's a LOT of exposures. Or make yourself a 10x16 portrait-format camera. There's a different format for you.

 

I vote for David's suggestion. You've got to look beyond the film. Your 16 1/2" Artar will cover 8x10; the 21" Anastigmat, 11x14; the Componon?... And even so, will you tire of your odd format before the film supply expires? What do you really want to accomplish? The prospect of an pleasurable eternity slicing and dicing film seems dubious.

 

I've got a better suggestion: just ship the film to me. PM me for my addres.

G

 

I'm trying to acquire a repro camera at the moment to use as a basis for an ULF camera. There are a couple of A2 (17x23) models for sale locally that might fit the bill and should cost $20 or so (including fuel cost to pick them up). From what I have read previously this will give me a set of bellows, a couple of lenses that can't be mounted in shutters and a pile of scrap metal.

The idea is to build a modern version of the old studio cameras, complete with two post stand (on wheels) and gear driven height adjustment. I'm looking at something that can be used for portraits rather than landscapes. Needless to say, aluminium features strongly in most of my construction plans.

I'm not sure what format to aim for as I don't have any lith film to start with. However as there isn't any requirement to be able to swap parts with other cameras I don't see any reason to make filmholders in the traditional pattern. Being a keen Graflex user my initial thoughts have been towards putting the film in septums, possibly glued in place with remount glue or the like. As per the grafmatics the septums would be pushed against a frame to get the correct registration. Then maybe manufacture the world's largest bag mag to hold six or so of them. This probably wouldn't work so well out in the field, but in a studio it should be manageable (just).

Next step will be to play with Jim Galli's modified Rodinal formula using 4x5 sheets until I am confident that I can get what I want.

 

I have always thought that the 10X16 format made a lot of sense. It takes the 16X20 sheet and cuts them down the other way from what normally happens.

The 10X16 format is smaller then 12X20 and still has the same aspect ratio. Very near the "golden mean". It is not nearly as long and narrow as the 8X20 or 7X17 formats.

You might play with these dimensions and see what you think of them. Since you have the means to do anything that you want, it would be a way to do something very nice and unusual.

 

I just got in a 16x20 Wisner lightweight Demo for sale last week. 28lbs. Maybe the last one Ron will ever make. The wood has some marks and the bellows too but a great liteweight 16x20. Emile/www.deleon-ulf.com.

 

Jim Fitzgerald and I are both in the middle of building our own 8 x 20's ourselves. Jim's is out of Walnut and mine is out of Makore (african cherry). The one bit if advice I can give is that you really need to take a lot of time planning it all and build model pieces out of cardboard, pine, MDF board, or whatever to test your design. Otherwise, you will go through a lot of your cherry in the process.

If you have the time, woodworking experience, tools, and patience, I'ld recommend it. So far, it has been alot of fun and very satisfying. We've both been posting progress pictures on the Camera Building forum if you want to see our progress.

Good Luck

 

That's a deal! I have some connections here.

G
(I wish this was not a joke)

 

I picked up my repro camera (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200012842518) last night and the remains of it are still sitting on the trailer awaiting further demolition. I paid $1 for it and probably spent another $40 (mostly trailer hire) getting it home. Fortunately the selllers had a forklift to help load it.

So what did I end up with?
A bellows that has an inside measurement of 270mm x 270mm (11x11") at the small end and 660 x 730 (26" x 28") at the large end. It has about 800mm of draw.
A vacuum pump, two frames and sundry rubber tubing and connectors.
Four 500w halogen lights.
A bank of 4 20W flourescent tubes in a glass topped case.
A large pile of scrap metal.
135/9.5 and 270/9.5 "Repromaster" lenses.

A quick search claims that the lenses were made by/for AGFA and are the same manufacturer as the Staeble and Eskofot range. I've already got a set of Ultragons: 150/9, 240/9 and 305/9 and there are a lot of similarities in construction and finish. The thing is that the 270/9.5 is twice the size of the 305/9 (1154g vs 568g). I guess I'm going to have to wait until I build the camera before I can test the image circle.

The bellows weighs just over 2.5kg (5.5 lb?) and shouldn't be the limiting factor on anything. I can't imagine ever shooting anything that approaches the limits unless 10x28 panoramics get popular. There shouldn't be any need to worry about using it in portrait orientation!

 

Erie, I think the jump to 8x20 would be a good idea. Dan and I are building 8x20's as he said. You have the wood and materials and there is a great deal of help and inspiration on this site. Take your time and do it right. Let us see what you are doing. I've gotten great ideas from the people posting and it has helped me with my first building project.

Stay Focused....or Soft Focused!!

Jim