Toning in Selenium + gold with potassium ferricyanide bleach

[Shesh]

I need to work on print which I want to tone in KRST and then Gold (Dupont 6T) and also bleach a couple of areas of the print (the amount of lighten-ing I am achieving with the gold toner is not sufficient). My understanding is that I should bleach first then user KRST and Gold toners. Am I right? If not, why?
As always, thanks!

 

[ann]

correct. don't forget to wash after bleaching. ALso mix the bleach with some weak fixer.
THere are various other techniques with bleaching (drag bleaching)that can be used after toning, but they are not the usual and especially since you are going to then tone in gold i would bleach first.

 

[Les McLean]

Follow Ann's advice, bleaching in ferri after toning in selenium and gold could produce big problems such as staining and not being able to stop the action of the bleach. Be sure to fix after bleaching and wash well after each process.

 

[fhovie]

I just did some Kalitypes today where one was a bit dark. I always Selenium tone my Kalitypes and I did bleach the dark one back with a very mild pot ferri brew that increased the contrast and made the photo seem less dark - Which suited this image ok - If I plan to bleach after toning, I usually don't allow it to finish toning. Selenuim really is a good barrier to pot ferri and the shadows will always remain quite dark - Frank

 

[Aggie]

One major problem with bleaching after toning. You might end up with a color change anywhere from orange to brown. If that is what you want, go for it. The potassium ferricynide tends to change the colors of selenium.

 

[fhovie]

One major problem with bleaching after toning. You might end up with a color change anywhere from orange to brown. If that is what you want, go for it. The potassium ferricynide tends to change the colors of selenium.

That is especially the case with Forte - Not so much with Ilford - It can be really unpredictable. But some have no color change at all. Those are the ones I use this technique on. It is in Barry Thornton's book "Edge of Darkness" - I learned a lot from this book. - Be carefull though - you might wind up buying a Rollei - that can be a pretty expensive book!

 

[Shesh]

Thank you all. I ended up following the initial plan of bleaching before toning. Fewer worries that way.

 

[Ole]

I just did some Kalitypes today where one was a bit dark. I always Selenium tone my Kalitypes and I did bleach the dark one back with a very mild pot ferri brew that increased the contrast and made the photo seem less dark - Which suited this image ok - If I plan to bleach after toning, I usually don't allow it to finish toning. Selenuim really is a good barrier to pot ferri and the shadows will always remain quite dark - Frank

If Kallitypes behave anywhere near like van Dykes, try bleaching with dilute rapid fix. That really lightens highlights and midtones without losing separation - at least on my van Dykes!