Stand development with Pyrocat HD

[hblad120]

I want to use stand development for processing 8X10 sheets of TriX-320. I am finishing putting together my ABS tube and hope to start developing this weekend. I've done some stand development with MF negs, but that was some time ago.

I was planning on starting with a development time of about 1 hour, but may go as high as 1.5 hours to increase contrast for these negs.

Is a 1:1:200 dilution the way to go? Other suggestions?
How much initial agiation?
Does water temperature impact the look of the negs?
Any agitation during the process?
Other time considerations?

Regards

 

[juan]

Depends on a lot - your film, paper, temperature, the SBR of your scene, etc. A lot of folks, me included, use 1:1:150. My development times are nowhere near that long, but I develop in a hot darkroom.
juan

 

[Tom Hoskinson]

I want to use stand development for processing 8X10 sheets of TriX-320. I am finishing putting together my ABS tube and hope to start developing this weekend. I've done some stand development with MF negs, but that was some time ago.

I was planning on starting with a development time of about 1 hour, but may go as high as 1.5 hours to increase contrast for these negs.

Is a 1:1:200 dilution the way to go? Other suggestions?
How much initial agiation?
Does water temperature impact the look of the negs?
Any agitation during the process?
Other time considerations?

Regards

For stand development I normally use the 1:1:150 dilution with 30 seconds of initial (gentle) agitation and no agitation during the remainder of the process.

You ask if the water temperature impacts the look of the negs. If you are stand developing with the tank standing in a tempered water bath, the answer is yes. The rate of development is temperature dependent. I stand develop at the ambient temperature of my lab (21C).

 

[vet173]

Unless your thinking about Albumen, that is way too long. As per Sandy Kings recommendation I develop at a 1.5:1:200 for -HD in semi stand application. 2 degrees difference in developer temp can make a BIG difference. Agitate continuous for first 1 1/2 minute. Then for ten seconds half way thru. You don't have to be real gentle in agitation, but were not makin martinis' either. 5 minute presoak.

 

[climbabout]

I want to use stand development for processing 8X10 sheets of TriX-320. I am finishing putting together my ABS tube and hope to start developing this weekend. I've done some stand development with MF negs, but that was some time ago.

I was planning on starting with a development time of about 1 hour, but may go as high as 1.5 hours to increase contrast for these negs.

Is a 1:1:200 dilution the way to go? Other suggestions?
How much initial agiation?
Does water temperature impact the look of the negs?
Any agitation during the process?
Other time considerations?

Regards

I've been using 1.5:1:175 with ilford fp4+ at about 36 min. 70deg f. with good results for contact printing with coventional enlarging paper for scenes with a normal contrast range.
Hope that helps you.
Tim Jones

 

[noseoil]

Main problem with stand development is the initial agitation used. Remember that any streaking, uneven staining, or problems will happen during the dumping in of developer and subsequent agitation. Make sure to use a gentle agitation and that there are three axes of motion which affect the movement of the fluid (roll, pitch and yaw).

I would start with 1:1:150 and do a couple of shots of the same image, to get the initial contrast you need. Plot the contrast as a function of your paper of choice and scene contrast. tim

 

[Steve Sherman]

Tri-X 320 is the older version of Tri-X if I'm not mistaken. I have done a fair amount of this film using Pyrocat developer in a large tank.

5 minute presoak, Pyrocat 1.5-1-175 @ 68 degrees. Vigorous up and down agitation for the first 45 secs. Let stand for 15 minutes, 20 secs. gentle agitation (up and down, not stirring action) let stand 15 minutes, repeat same agitation let stand 15 minutes remove to stop bath. These times would be appropriate for a scene where the contrast was low, before or after sun is above horizon. SBR 3 or lower.

For a normal contrast scene I would back the "Stand Times" down to 10 minutes each.

This will likely yield negatives with a density range of 1.5-1.6, suitable for Azo #2. For Azo #3 or enlarging paper I would begin at 12 minutes and reduce to 8 minutes respectively.

If by chance the Tri-X film you are using is the newer version then these suggestions will be far to potent.

 

[gainer]

Tri-X 320 is a very different film. I don't recall it being the predecessor of TX 400 or 200. I don't even know if it is still being made, but the two were made at athe same time before the little dots took over. Tri-X 320 has a very different curve shape, especially designed for the portrait photographer, and has never been available in 35 mm. This is just a matter of interest. I'm sure PE knows more about it than I.

This curve shape might make it difficult to use for scenery out of doors, as it has a natural upsweep. It might be good where you want more contrast in the highlights.

Now that I have shot my wad, I'll go back to the previous posts and see if I was pertinent.

 

[Donald Miller]

I have used a lot of Tri X 320 mostly with HC 110 but a fair amount in Pyrocat HD. My times with HC 110 or Pyrocat tray developed for enlarging was 6 min 15 seconds. For stand development for enlarging with a normal contrast scene I would stand develop for 18 minutes at 1-1-150 dilution. Enlarging equipment would make a difference. I use a point light condenser so my times may be a little shorter than a diffusion enlarger.

 

[sanking]

So far as I know the current TRI-X 320 film, known as 320 TXP, is the modern version of TRI-320 known as TXT. Although you might see some small differences, the old and new film are essentially the same. Both have a very long toe and, with most developers, a flaring shoulder.

The other TRI-X, which is ASA 400, is a much different film, with a much more linear and straight curve.

Sandy King

 

[dslater]

So what is the effect on the final print of a long toe and flaring shoulder vs. a linear curve? Sorry if this is OT for this thread, but I read about things like this all the time and am trying to get some idea of how the shape of the curve affects the shadows and highlights in the print.

So far as I know the current TRI-X 320 film, known as 320 TXP, is the modern version of TRI-320 known as TXT. Although you might see some small differences, the old and new film are essentially the same. Both have a very long toe and, with most developers, a flaring shoulder.

The other TRI-X, which is ASA 400, is a much different film, with a much more linear and straight curve.

Sandy King

 

[sanking]

So what is the effect on the final print of a long toe and flaring shoulder vs. a linear curve? Sorry if this is OT for this thread, but I read about things like this all the time and am trying to get some idea of how the shape of the curve affects the shadows and highlights in the print.

The long toe may reduce contrast in the shadows. Films with long toes give shadows that may look muddy compared to films that have a more linear curve. A flaring curve increases contrast in the highlights, often giving washed out highlights unless they are printed down.

Sandy King

 

[gainer]

It may be that stand development will tame the highlights of TX 320 and straighten the curve. I'm only speaking theoretically. I don't lug the big guns around anymor. Arthur and his dad-blamed itis have got hold of me.