Split-grade printing with StopClock Pro and ZoneMaster

[anyhuus]

I am the (very) happy owner of the StopClock Pro from RHDesign. I find it a very good tool for both f-stop printing and split-grade printing. However, as mentioned in another thread from me today ((there was a url link here which no longer exists),
I struggle with efficiency reaching a satisfactory printing result.

So, I am considering the ZoneMasterII from the same company. This is in order to attempt to reach the stage of more creative assessments with less hassle. However, as far as I can understand, the ZoneMaster provides you with a single grade and exposure. Is it usable at all for split-grade printing at all, and if so - how?

I do find that split-grade printing provides me with a level of control and understanding (at least an illusion of that) that I like.

 

[jstraw]

Have you read all the way through the manuals for both devices? I would sugest that as a starting point.

 

[RH Designs]

as far as I can understand, the ZoneMaster provides you with a single grade and exposure. Is it usable at all for split-grade printing at all, and if so - how?

Split-grade printing is a method of determining the optimum exposure and contrast for a print from a given negative because (to a first approximation) the soft exposure controls the highlights and the hard exposure controls the shadows. It's normally done using test strips for the soft and hard exposures, and is probably easier than making separate exposure and contrast test strips through single filters. However the resulting split exposure is equivalent to a single exposure through the appropriate filter - and the ZoneMaster is designed to determine what that single exposure and filter should be, without the need to make any test strips.

It's not really intended for use with the split-grade method but you could use it to determine the soft exposure by simply taking a highlight reading at grade 0. Then take a shadow reading and determine the optimum contrast for the print. If your StopClock is the latest version (8.0 or later) it will display the equivalent grade as the hard exposure is adjusted so you should be able to adjust the hard exposure to give you the equivalent grade as suggested by the ZoneMaster. I must stress I haven't actually tried this - my darkroom is still in pieces after the recent move - but in theory it should work, at least over the middle of the contrast range.

It's probably more convenient to use the ZoneMaster as intended and make a single exposure through the recommended filter. That will quickly get you a good quality print that you can then start to work on to extract what you want from the negative.

 

[Blighty]

I use mine for split-grade printing but only as a means of getting an approximate soft and hard exposure. I first take a reading of an important highlight (at grade 00) and then base a fine step-size test print around this exposure. I then take a shadow reading at G.5 which gives me a ballpark figure on which to make a more accurate hard test-strip. I'm sure I've seen calibrations somewhere for split-grade printing. Might be an idea to look on RH Designs website.

 

[jstraw]

Split-grade printing is a method of determining the optimum exposure and contrast for a print from a given negative because (to a first approximation) the soft exposure controls the highlights and the hard exposure controls the shadows. It's normally done using test strips for the soft and hard exposures, and is probably easier than making separate exposure and contrast test strips through single filters. However the resulting split exposure is equivalent to a single exposure through the appropriate filter - and the ZoneMaster is designed to determine what that single exposure and filter should be, without the need to make any test strips.

It's not really intended for use with the split-grade method but you could use it to determine the soft exposure by simply taking a highlight reading at grade 0. Then take a shadow reading and determine the optimum contrast for the print. If your StopClock is the latest version (8.0 or later) it will display the equivalent grade as the hard exposure is adjusted so you should be able to adjust the hard exposure to give you the equivalent grade as suggested by the ZoneMaster. I must stress I haven't actually tried this - my darkroom is still in pieces after the recent move - but in theory it should work, at least over the middle of the contrast range.

It's probably more convenient to use the ZoneMaster as intended and make a single exposure through the recommended filter. That will quickly get you a good quality print that you can then start to work on to extract what you want from the negative.

This certainly begs the question, "what about fractional filters?"

Yes, there is a theorhetical single filter for any split-grade printing example but often (nearly always) that would be a filter number that falls between two actual filter grades. And yes, that could be dialed in to certain VC and color heads but then you still lose the capability to dodge and burn hard and soft exposures separately. I plan to use a StopClock Pro and ZoneMaster II and continue to expose soft and hard exposures separately.

 

[jstraw]

I use mine for split-grade printing but only as a means of getting an approximate soft and hard exposure. I first take a reading of an important highlight (at grade 00) and then base a fine step-size test print around this exposure. I then take a shadow reading at G.5 which gives me a ballpark figure on which to make a more accurate hard test-strip. I'm sure I've seen calibrations somewhere for split-grade printing. Might be an idea to look on RH Designs website.

This is pretty much what I plan to do.

 

[Will S]

I previously posted my method here:

(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

Not sure if it is still what I'm doing, but might give you some ideas.

Best,

Will

 

[anyhuus]

I have just ordered a ZoneMasterII based on your input
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Will S really got my perspectives right on this, showing how exposure meter and splitgrade can be combined.

 

[jstraw]

Yes, thanks for that pointer, Will. I found your explanation helpful as well.

 

[Will S]

I'm glad you found it useful. I wrote that all fresh off the workshop with Les McClean so I guess I picked up something from him that made sense.

Thanks,

Will

 

[jstraw]

I've just re-read this thread after spending some time with the new gear which arrived today...and after spending some more time with the manuals.

So the StopClock Pro can do split grade splendidly but at its heart, the Zonemaster is designed to give you an exposure and a filter grade that will give you a good, straight print without doing test strips. In a broad sense, it seems to obviate the use of split grade.

So the question that comes up for me is this...

Is there *still* a reason to do split grade printing...even though ine may have a time and filter grade worked out.

Perhaps, yes. Split grade provides two primary benefits, as I see it. The first is it's a less haphazard and more efficient means of determining contrast grade than guessing and adjusting.

Second is the ability to control local contrast by dodging and burning the soft and hard esposures separately. This latter aspect still has great value even if you have equipment that can tell you what your desired contrast grade for a given print needs to be. I want to continue doing split grade for this reason.

What I'd like to do is build on Will S' work to use the Zonemaster II to develop a procedure for determining soft and hard exposures that takes advantage of the meter's ability to eliminate test strips.

Do those of you experienced with this equipment have any thoughts?