Some basic Hasselblad questions #3

Yes ... some more basic questions ... thanks to all who have responded to the others ... I really appreciate the input.

1. Can the NC-2 be fitted straight onto a 500 series body without a WLF (is it just a matter of removing the WLF and sliding?/clipping? the NC-2 straight on?)

2. Can the eye cup on the NC-2 be rotated for left or right eyed viewing? (I'm a non standard "lefty")

3. What do you get with a CF lens that you don't get with a C lens?

4. Do CF lenses have a self timer facility? What about "brief" for long exposures

5. What are the lens shade options? ... I will be starting with an 80mm (probably bay 60) but will be adding others later.

Thanks

Yes, you slide the WLF off, slide the prism on.
Yes, you can rotate the eyecup
The CF lens don't default to coupled f/stop and shutter speed, which most people find easier. The focus ring is larger, and easier to grip. However, unlike the C lenses, you don't get a self timer.
There are fixed shades, not sure if the one for the 80 fits other focal lengths. There are also bellows shades that are adjustable for several lenses.

Thanks bdial ... Is there a "brief" shutter speed setting? (for long exposures)

Yes, B on the lens, and T on the body (the lock on the release button).

Thanks so much bdial ... I think I'm actually ready to buy!

There are three bayonet 60 fixed shades for most of the focal lenght range: one for lenses of 38 mm upto and including 60 mm, one for the 80 mm, and one for lenses longer than 80 mm upto and including the 250 mm lenses.
The 40 mm, 350 and 500 mm lenses use different, screw mount shades.


The "T" setting (a lever that locks the shutter release button) is only on 500 C, 500 C/M and 503 CX (not CXi) bodies. You need to move the lever itself to end the exposure.
It only works when you release the camera by pressing the shutter button itself, not when using a cable release. Since there are good reasons not to touch the camera when doing long exposures, people tend to use cable releases. So the "T" locking lever is not greatly missed. But do get a locking cable release.


"B", by the way, stands for "bulb" (as in the rubber thingy people had to press to open the shutter and keep pressed to keep it open), not "brief".

I use the same (shorter) lens shade for both 80 and 150 lenses. I very rarely miss the longer shade.

Ian

Q3-4: The CF lenses comes with more modern shutters (Prontor), which seems to be somewhat better than the older Syncro Compur shutters. Also, the ergonomics of the control rings and tabs are much better with the CF lenses. What you miss with a CF lens is the self timer, which is quite odd to operate anyway. (If you intend to use a C-lens self timer, a locking cable release seems to be the way to go.) In general, newer lenses are more expensive than older lenses. There is quite a difference in terms of money between C and CF lenses, partly because Hasselblad and some repair workshops are running out of parts for the Syncro Compur shutters. The most common cause for breakdown is storing the lens for too long time between usage. I.e. all Hasselblad lenses should be given a monthly exercise, which will keep them happy.
On the more common lenses, e.g. 80mm 150mm etc, there is very little, if any difference between a C and a CF lens in terms of optics and optical performance. I.e. once it's time to press the buttom any vintage of lens will give you excellent results.

//Björn

gregmacc said:

Thanks bdial ... Is there a "brief" shutter speed setting? (for long exposures)

Click to expand...

There is ... but to be anally correct,`B' stands for Bulb, not brief.
A holdover from the ancient days where exposures were made with pneumatic bulbs on the ends of tubing linked to the shutter.
Using `B' the shutter stays open only when the shuttter release is kept depressed, and closes when it is released.
On `Time', the shuter opens on the first depression of the relase and remains open until the release is pressed again.