shutterfinger
Member
This is not a Fur Sail ad.
https://www.flickr.com/gp/thirteenthumbs/001xRv
Made by Kodak LTD, London.
A simple yet rugged box camera. According to brownie-camera.com (the Bronwie Camera Page)
It has a 100mm f11 lens with a 1/45 shutter.
It is a simple, snap together design. To open for cleaning gently pry up st the indentation on each side of the front and pull outward. The portrait lens and shutter plate and the view window block slip out in a similar manner. Rust spots were buffed with a scotch brite for metal pad and touched up with Rustoleum Flat and Satin black paints as needed.
I applied a small drop of TriFlow oil to the shutter pivots and it consistently tested .0215 - .022 second.
I did not remove the portrait lens as it is locked onto the shutter board by tabs that I did not want to risk breaking. I cleaned the lens with Windex on cotton swabs then wiped with a microfiber cloth.
Respooling 120 flm made easy. In total darkness wind the film onto a second 120 spool keeping the spools close to each other and the backing paper/film tight. The film now has the EXPOSED end showing. A vintage 620 spool will have a long and short slot in the spool shaft. Start the backing paper from the 120 spool into the long slot. Wind the backing paper onto the 620 spool keeping it tight and next to the 120 spool and as soon as the end of the film becomes accessible start it onto the 620 spool. 1 120 spool turn of film can be unrolled for handling convience but start onto the 620 spool as soon as possible. If you started the film correctly there will be NO buldge at the lead end of the film and you will not have to reposition the tape that holds the film to the backing paper.
Respooled TriX drying.
https://www.flickr.com/gp/thirteenthumbs/001xRv
Made by Kodak LTD, London.
A simple yet rugged box camera. According to brownie-camera.com (the Bronwie Camera Page)
It has a 100mm f11 lens with a 1/45 shutter.
It is a simple, snap together design. To open for cleaning gently pry up st the indentation on each side of the front and pull outward. The portrait lens and shutter plate and the view window block slip out in a similar manner. Rust spots were buffed with a scotch brite for metal pad and touched up with Rustoleum Flat and Satin black paints as needed.
I applied a small drop of TriFlow oil to the shutter pivots and it consistently tested .0215 - .022 second.
I did not remove the portrait lens as it is locked onto the shutter board by tabs that I did not want to risk breaking. I cleaned the lens with Windex on cotton swabs then wiped with a microfiber cloth.
Respooling 120 flm made easy. In total darkness wind the film onto a second 120 spool keeping the spools close to each other and the backing paper/film tight. The film now has the EXPOSED end showing. A vintage 620 spool will have a long and short slot in the spool shaft. Start the backing paper from the 120 spool into the long slot. Wind the backing paper onto the 620 spool keeping it tight and next to the 120 spool and as soon as the end of the film becomes accessible start it onto the 620 spool. 1 120 spool turn of film can be unrolled for handling convience but start onto the 620 spool as soon as possible. If you started the film correctly there will be NO buldge at the lead end of the film and you will not have to reposition the tape that holds the film to the backing paper.
Respooled TriX drying.
Last edited: