Sinar P2 Hyperfocal Scale + Tilts

[Brae]

Good evening,


I just picked up a Sinar P2 from KEH and I haven't put any film through it yet, but I've been trying to learn the hyperlocal scale system and determining tilt angles before burning up any film with mistakes that may happen. I think I've got it but just wanted to ask for clarification in case I don't have it. The manual is not exactly the greatest but I did make an attempt to read it multiple times. At first I was actually playing out all the steps one after the other and it obviously wasn't working but then I think I had a moment of clarity.

This is where I am at so far: With all movements and the fine focus dial zeroed I set the hyperlocal dial (on the fine focus knob) to the notch for 4x5 then I focus on the far and reset the dial to the notch then focus on the near, I take note of the aperture it lands on, then take note of the tilt degrees showing on the standard for the fine focus, then back the focusing knob off by 2 stops on the hyper focal scale. Once that is done I set the indicated tilt angle on the lens standard and set the aperture to the suggested working aperture (F stop suggested prior to backing off by two stops) and in theory there should be optimum depth of field and plane of focus set at this point? Is this correct?


This is not my first large format camera but it is my first Sinar with geared movements. I'm sure someone will come along and say that It's just as intuitive doing it without the Sinar system, and it may be, but I figured it has it so might as well learn about it. Any insight is appreciated!

Thanks!

 

[DREW WILEY]

I learned all that, and then forgot it. Search for an official Sinar Handbook, which is much more thorough than the Manual. That focus calculation system might be handy for tabletop studio photography where everything is artificially aligned on the same plane of focus, but it makes little sense in the field where complex planes have to be negotiated. And yeah, the reason I forgot it all is that it's more intuitive just to do it intuitively, after a little practice. I never needed their fancy method. There are also certain applications where the yaw-free design is helpful, again, in the studio trade; but mostly, that's no big deal either. I pretty much transitioned to the earlier Norma model anyway.

 

[Ardpatrick]

I think it’s worth figuring out. I sold my Sinar 15 years ago and it’s one of the features I miss about that system. With a little practice it becomes quite intuitive to use anyway, so it’s hardly an impediment.

I even recall off the top of my head:

Use the difference on the scale between focussing on the significant detail at the top broken line on the ground glass (foreground) and the bottom broken line (background) to determine front tilt. Same process with the vertical broken lines for any front swing. For DoF focus on the near focus point / zero the dial around the focus knob / now focus on the far away focus point and read off the indicated aperture for your format (this could be far focus first etc - it’s been 15 years!).

Damn now I want to buy a Sinar again!

 

[DREW WILEY]

There has to be the official Sinar ground glass with those dotted lines on it; and yes, all this assumes there is a consistent focal plane in play in between those line, and extending beyond them (which often is not in the case in the real world). Hyperfocal theory also makes some assumptions about the degree of enlargement involved in the final product, and what is acceptable to a viewer.

The F-Series Sinars have a little bit different method; and the older Norma series simply doesn't worry about it.

 

[wiltw]

There has to be the official Sinar ground glass with those dotted lines on it; and yes, all this assumes there is a consistent focal plane in play in between those line, and extending beyond them (which often is not in the case in the real world). Hyperfocal theory also makes some assumptions about the degree of enlargement involved in the final product, and what is acceptable to a viewer.

The F-Series Sinars have a little bit different method; and the older Norma series simply doesn't worry about it.

Assumption is typically that a 8x10" print is being viewed from 10" away for all negative format sizes.

And typical 'manufacturer standard Hyperfocal' calculation assumes the viewer's eyes are not as good as a person whose vision has been corrected by an optometrist to typical 20/20 (USA) or 6/6 (Europe) correction standards! So the typical viewer would really SEE things 'out of focus' that are 'in focus' by typical camera/lens manufacturer standards! That is the reason that hyperfocal wisdom says to assume the use of a SMALLER aperture than you really intend to use, when performing hyperfocal distance computations (scales/charts) -- about TWO smaller!

 

[DREW WILEY]

Yeah, assuming a magazine ad or book reproduction. But I knew a professional food photographer using 8x10 Sinar P's for intricate setups blow, up ten times life size, with extreme detail nose right up to the picture on advertising print 5 by 8 feet. He got paid a lot for that, but had to be way more precise about focus and setup than that Sinar hyperfocal dial trick would allow. He shot a lot of intricate Asian chinaware with the food arranged outright artistically upon it, but with a shallow depth of field.