Seal jumbo 150

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noseoil

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I just got an older Seal Jumbo 150 dry mount press in 16" x 20" size. When plugged in and turned on, the red light blinks, temperature seems to come up, but I don't get a green light and the temp setting rheostat doesn't seem to function to affect the heat cycle. It seems to be in good shape, clean, good platen and pad. There are no obvious signs of neglect or abuse and it is definately sturdy.

Does anyone have some experience with this press? I would like to correspond with someone who has used this type of press and could answer a few questions for me. If there is a problem, I can probably trouble shoot and fix the thing, but I would like to know what "normal function" is and how it should behave before I start to tinker with it.
 

dr bob

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If the heating elements are working, the problem is most probably a poor, bad, corroded, or otherwise open connector. It could be in the indicator circuit, like a burned out pilot lamp - naw it couldn't be that simple.... I think some of these units can be wired for 220 or 110 volts. One wired for 220 but connected to 110 circuit might give the operation you are perceiving. How hot dos it get?

I think it could be repaired at home if you have a volt-ohm meter (Ohm?) and some patience. I wish I could be there....

Truly, dr bob.
 
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noseoil

noseoil

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Thanks Dr. Bob,

I don't have a temperature probe with the correct heat range, so I don't know how hot it gets. I just plugged it in last night for the first time. Since it is heating, I will chech continuity through the trim pot and see if it is working. I have a volt/ohm meter, so I can trouble shoot, but I don't want to take too many steps without need. I'll open it up and have a look at the top end. Hopefully it is a loose or corroded connection. Will post what I find.

Again, thank you.
 
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noseoil

noseoil

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Dr. Bob,

I found the green lamp was loose, tightened same. Then tightened all connections I could find and some were also a bit loose. Plugged it back in, turned it on to "high" heat and waited a bit. Hot stuff! I did a test print with RC paper and it works like a charm. I do need to adjust the temperature setting knob (plastic melted from the face of the print) but with the green light functioning now, at least I can see how it works when cycling.

Many thanks for your input. tim
 
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Seal Jumbo 150 power requirements

I just bought one of these presses, myself. but....
Should I be able to just plug this unit into an ordinary wall socket? I bought it out of town and plugged it in the hotel's wall and the lights went out :laugh: I flipped the switch in the circuit box and they came back on. But now I'm hesitant to plug in at home. Any idea's?

TSS
 

tkamiya

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These things draw good amount of current. If your circuit is 15A at the breaker and you already have few things in that circuit, it can easily overload it. Either that or you have a dead short in your press.

I have one, it tripped the breaker once. I inspected it and nothing was wrong. It's been working fine since.
 
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:blink: I know so little about electricity lol. I know we have 20A fuses in our circuit box. I also noticed (after the lights came back on :laugh: ) that the on/off switch won't stay in the on position (or off position- I'm not sure, it isn't marked).
I'll have a look inside the box where the chord connects to the unit. Maybe it IS just a short.

Now that I think about it, what had happened was I plugged it in, noticed the red and green lights, checked to make sure it started to heat up, and then turned it off at the switch (I MIGHT have unplugged it instead of actually turning it off *sigh*). THAT'S when the lights went out, the power switch stays in one position, and there was a spark at the outlet. From then on whenever I plugged it in, the lights went out. That does kind of sound like a short. I hope I didn't damage the unit. I guess I should also buy an operators manual. It came without one.
Any more advise?? Thanks for the response:smile:
 

tkamiya

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Don't worry, there isn't much that can break in these things. Well, except for a switch and thermostat, I guess.

Do you need a replacement switch? Mine went bad so I bought a replacement and a spare. I have it somewhere around here. You could have it for shipping if you want. (assuming I can find it)

If you have a Radio Shack locally, you may be able to find similar one there, too.
 

tkamiya

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In United States, the electrical code requires 12 gauge wires be used for wiring supporting 20 amps total. 14 gauge for 15 amp circuits. It's actually not as simple as this but this is the basic. Under sized wiring causes voltage drop, heat build-up, etc.

In some older homes, there were instances home owners needed more amperage delivered to their sockets. In some cases, home owner(s) just replaced the fuse and left the wiring alone and these were thin wires. That could be an issue. It's a little more difficult to do with circuit breakers, and if an electrician is involved, they will not do that.
 
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I still haven't dared to plug it in our home, but after inspecting the prongs I noticed that one of the two flat prongs is splitting right at the tip where it folds back on itself. It's still connected, but a definite split is happening. This sure seems to be a strong suspect. That should be an easy enough fix for an electrition to perform.
What had actually happened was at the hotel I plugged it in, flipped the switch and saw the lights come on, tested if the plate heated, and then turned it off, but I think there is an 85% chance I unplugged it before actually switching it off (I'll consider my head slapped by all of you lol). That is when the lights went out and the switch stuck in the off position. From then on whenever I plugged it in, the lights went out.
 

tkamiya

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You did this at a hotel room? I bet you made friends out of other residents and managers.... hehe.

Tell you what.... take it home and carefully inspect the cord itself and replace the plug. It's not a big deal. There are only 3 wires involved. You don't need an electrician for that. All you need is someone who has done it once or twice.

It's a heavy current device. As I said earlier, if the capacity of the circuit (ie. outlet) is marginal, unplugging or plugging it in can cause the circuit breaker to trip when there is nothing wrong with the device itself. Unplugging itself without turning it off isn't a problem. I do it all the time.

I checked mine. The plug is the original and I know what you are talking about. Don't rush to any conclusions. Take it home, put it in your garage (so if something should happen, you are on concrete floor and nothing burns) and plug it in and see what happens.
 
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